Kojima shows off a new Death Stranding trailer at E3 | Circuit Breaker Parts

My situation is a good example. I just purchased a new house and unfortunately it does not have a garage. Until I get the garage built in the Spring with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, I’m going to rough it with L1 at 120V/15A.

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Washing machines etc. have their own 10-16A fuses. 3 phase 16A power is used for larger equipment, most commonly for semi-permanent installation like oven&stove combo and electric sauna stove. Those are usually connected to star, so single element in equipment will still see 230V.

My original quote is based on the project you called me in for. If I find out there’s actually a larger issue at hand, I’ll need to increase my price to match the scope of the project. I’m not ripping you off, I’m just making sure I get compensated for the extra work.

You don’t need a big contactor to switch 1A at 120v, you can get little “ice cube” relays that switch up to 10A at 120V and they have a plug-in base so easy to change out when they inevitably fail. Most of them, in new perfect condition, make barely any sound. Nothing compared to the noise of fans and stepper motors. The only issue I can see is running AC mains voltage through wiring that is going in parallel with low voltage. Would need to use thick jacketed, shielded cable to prevent too much EMI. Maybe it’d be better suited using a separate transformer just for the heated bed, rectified/regulated but still a higher voltage for better efficiency. Speaking just from my experience as an electrician and hobbyist level electronics/3d printing experience.

​So if I am looking to make the magnet more powerful, other than supplying more current, could I wire the primary and secondary coils of the microwave transformer together in series to get more turns (being mindful to keep the direction the current flows the same in both coils)? My thoughts are that it would increase the resistance a bit from the added wire but that the magnet would have a lot more turns. Am I missing something or am I onto something? Thanks in advance!

If I find a warm circuit breaker, I take a logical approach. First, is there a good reason for the circuit breaker to be warm? A 240-volt appliance like an air conditioner will definitely warm up a circuit breaker while it’s operating. No problem there. The image below shows a warm circuit AC circuit, but in this case, I do care about the temperature readings. This circuit is only about 8 degrees warmer than anything else in the image. This is not a significant difference, and it makes sense.

I suppose a more flexible grid, with more cheap gas plants, which can fire up quickly, made this possible, as well as making the grid itself smarter. There was a rush to build gas power plants a while ago, since of course gas isn’t going to run out any time soon or anything.

Handheld Twilight mode captures a batch of high-ISO images, reducing blur from camera shake, and then averages the aligned exposures so as to reduce image noise. A new Multi-Frame NR mode acts similarly, but allows the ISO sensitivity to be selected manually, allowing use even at lower sensitivities. Of course, these effects could all be achieved in a PC with some work and know-how, but what’s impressive is that they’re now available with a minimum of fuss, in-camera. To ensure that even inexperienced photographers can derive benefit from these features, Sony has also created a new Auto+ exposure mode that can identify when these functions might be of use, and then enable them automatically.

You can burn your house down in many different ways. Knocking over a poorly placed candle, or dropping a napkin on the electric stove are much more likely than a fault in the wiring, and the insurance company will pay out just the same. They would have to show that you were grossly negligent.

It happens to the best of us. We power up our project and immediately run into issues. Be it spotty communication or microcontroller reset or any number of bugs that have us mystified and picking though our code… only to find that it’s a power supply issue. Anyone who has tried doing Raspberry Pi stuff and depended on the USB power from their PC has certainly been bit by this.

Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…