Kojima shows off a new Death Stranding trailer at E3 | Lrd12 Overload Relay

My fairly large (print volume 450x250x350mm) home-made 3D printer uses a mains-powered heat bed made from a junk-pile sourced electric pancake griddle which I ground down to more or less flat and glued a 24×12″ ceramic floor tile down to its top with high temperature silicone. It has a 10 ohm resistance and I use the original temperature control knob as a safety / sanity interlock against thermal runaway and then it is driven by 120v mains power switched by a 25A solid state relay controlled by the normal RAMPS heatbed output. The mains input runs through a breaker box before going to the 24v power supply for the NEMA23 motors and the ATX power supply for the Arduino, RAMPS, extruders, hotends, and Odroid U3 that make up the rest of the printer.

“Engineering types”? – I would suspect business or accounting “types” to be responsible for “saving” on maintenance. Engineers normally know, that maintenance is important.

There’s one more multi-shot feature on the Sony A33 that’s worth mentioning; namely Auto HDR (High Dynamic Range). HDR photography increases the range of brightness values represented in a scene by combining two or more shots taken at different exposures, combining highlight detail from some and shadow detail from others. In the past, this has involved locking the camera down on a tripod, shooting several images at different exposures, and then working on a computer to combine them. Lately, though, the capability to do this directly in-camera has been appearing from a number of manufacturers, with varying levels of success. The auto HDR feature on the Sony A33 works pretty well, since the camera does the same micro-alignment trick it uses for its other multi-shot features. Options for HDR include an Auto setting, where the camera determines how much of the effect to apply, and manual settings ranging from 1 to 6(!) EV of exposure range.

The outlet on your wall is likely on a 15 amp circuit, so in many cases, the Smart Plug can handle as much power as the breaker or fuse can. To see what the power requirements of many electrical devices are and what type of load they create, you should visit Electrical Safety First. It’s a site based out of the UK, but the power ratings for products are the same no matter which country you use them in and the charts here are an invaluable tool.

No, ebay removed the ability for sellers to leave negative feedback years ago. Fun fact – the majority of an ebay sellers score these days (not the % positive feedback, but the score used for determining search rankings etc) is determined by the % of orders that are received on time and without a ebay ‘case’ (return, etc) being opened.

Remarkably, this big battery doesn’t affect the utility of this not-a-crossover. Interior dimensions, including the 100.9 cubic foot total passenger volume and 19.4 cubes of luggage capacity, matches that of the standard Niro. That picture of the cargo hold shows a small bag that carries the charging cable, but it’s removable and fastens anywhere on the floor with hook-and-loop fasteners.

In San Diego (where I live) residential electricty rates start at 15 cents per kWh. Lower electric rates are available if you charge the car at night, but you have to agree to pay a crazy-high rate of 53 cents per kWh at other times. That wouldn’t work for me, but YMMV.

In the old days, waaay back in the 20th Century, you’d buy something from a vendor that had a good reputation. It was in their interest to keep their reputation, because that’s where customers came from, so they’d make sure to only buy their materials and parts from reputable suppliers. And they’d do the same, forming a chain of reliability and trust built up through experience and everyone’s mutual need to keep up a reputation.

Even with a large heat sink like that, shrink it to 50mmx100mm and the datasheet lists a max of 10A. With that aluminum plate, I’d be surprised if it could handle more than 5A for a length of time.

I suppose it’d be a case by case thing. But I wouldn’t want to give an insurance company another excuse not to pay out.

Window AC units blast for hours at time and use massive amounts of energy. An extension cord—and usually even sharing the circuit powering your AC with something else—overloads the wires. If they get too hot, the wires could short out and start a fire. Make sure the unit gets its own circuit, meaning a switch on your electrical panel dedicated to your AC and nothing else. Here are 11 more home safety risks and how to avoid them.

I recall doing the exact same as a kid when in france, on holiday. The french also have those so seductive to interested kids 2-Prong plugs with a gap of ‘just’ that size….