Larson Electronics LLC Releases Portable 75 KVA Power Distribution Station with 2 520R-GFCI Receptacles | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I have pulled this hack in a pinch with specific pieces of test equipment, etc. (usually large power supplies) in non-residential settings but instead of having a snazzy box I would use one extension cord and my trusty Fluke and sort it out. In that application, the circuits were almost always dedicated (or near-dedicated), but in a residential setting, there are still many circuits that are rarely loaded much if at all, and I see this as working perfectly fine for those times.

DC burns. It doesn’t cause a muscle lock-up like AC does. It’s more dangerous in that sense, because you don’t feel it beyond the initial shock until your flesh starts to cook from inside out.

You don’t need a 3D printer to use a heated print bed for 3D printing? I’d think that having the rest of the 3D printer would more or less be required to use a heated bed to facilitate printing.

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

You say dull, I say perfectly judged for the day to day. This plus a sports car for the weekend would be a very nice combo.

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> and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.

We recently watched [MakeItExtreme] turn a couple of microwave oven transformers into a somewhat ill-advised wall-climbing rig. It looks like that may have been the inspiration for this build, and the finished product appears to be a tad more useful this time. The frames of three MOTs are cut open to remove the secondary coils and leave the cores exposed as poles for the future magnets. A shallow dish is fabricated out of steel and the magnets are welded in place.

Then again, like other counterfeit assemblies…. they might rely on the installer using a 25A relay for a 15A load which is why they put a counterfeit 16A triac inside which the manufacturer actually put a die of a 12A because he knows his user will de-rate the max current anyway.

Low current (and damage-reducing high-frequency skin effect) on the Tesla coil’s HV secondary. Mains frequency penetration, arcability and cross-heart lethal current on the neon sign transformer’s secondary. So, it’s good that my wakeup call went in & out of the same arm.

My fairly large (print volume 450x250x350mm) home-made 3D printer uses a mains-powered heat bed made from a junk-pile sourced electric pancake griddle which I ground down to more or less flat and glued a 24×12″ ceramic floor tile down to its top with high temperature silicone. It has a 10 ohm resistance and I use the original temperature control knob as a safety / sanity interlock against thermal runaway and then it is driven by 120v mains power switched by a 25A solid state relay controlled by the normal RAMPS heatbed output. The mains input runs through a breaker box before going to the 24v power supply for the NEMA23 motors and the ATX power supply for the Arduino, RAMPS, extruders, hotends, and Odroid U3 that make up the rest of the printer.

But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.