When I was a about 12, my mother decided to fault find a 35mm slide viewer. 240vac in, 6vac out of the transformer to a plug which fitted a socket under the viewer. Slide closed two metal contacts.
It happens to the best of us. We power up our project and immediately run into issues. Be it spotty communication or microcontroller reset or any number of bugs that have us mystified and picking though our code… only to find that it’s a power supply issue. Anyone who has tried doing Raspberry Pi stuff and depended on the USB power from their PC has certainly been bit by this.
Since August 15, 2018, it had 0 buys, and 22 insider sales for $92.11 million activity. 2,028 shares were sold by Olsavsky Brian T, worth $3.87M on Wednesday, August 15. The insider STONESIFER PATRICIA Q sold $2.31M. 1,645 shares were sold by WILKE JEFFREY A, worth $3.09 million. Reynolds Shelley had sold 437 shares worth $687,447 on Thursday, November 15. Another trade for 1,726 shares valued at $2.70M was made by Jassy Andrew R on Thursday, November 15. The insider BEZOS JEFFREY P sold 3,200 shares worth $5.31M.
As a result I wrote this article in 2015 outlining the issue, what I did to ID the problem and the solution.https://www.instructables.com/id/The-inner-workings-of-Counterfeit-FOTEK-SSRs/
Both elements weren’t on….elements in electric HW heaters are cascading…they cannot come on simultaneously. Bottom element is powered through normally closed side of upper element relay. Therefore, if upper element is on, lower element is off.
There is a reason SSRs come with four bolt holes and a wide, flat aluminum base. And a reason manufacturers use these large heat sinks on them, and don’t forget a thin film of thermal paste:
If you use 24V for 120W, you only need 5 amps. That’s not much. A good mosfet shouldn’t even get warm at 5A, and you don’t need very fat wires.
Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…
I stuck a finger in a light socket when I was about 3 years old back in Brooklyn NY and got a momentary buzz sensation. Nothing more. I got a few more 110V shocks as a US Army Air Force student of electronics back in 1944. No problems but I was warned to keep my left hand in my pocket in uncertain situations to not form a circuit through my heart, Here in Helsinki where I now live I have taken 220 V a couple of times. Nothing I’d recommend but no harm done. Nevertheless, I’m careful and never fool around with wet hands.
If I find a warm circuit breaker, I take a logical approach. First, is there a good reason for the circuit breaker to be warm? A 240-volt appliance like an air conditioner will definitely warm up a circuit breaker while it’s operating. No problem there. The image below shows a warm circuit AC circuit, but in this case, I do care about the temperature readings. This circuit is only about 8 degrees warmer than anything else in the image. This is not a significant difference, and it makes sense.
In some cases, contractors have stated that certain municipalities are requiring that conductors be sized based on the breaker size instead of the MCA. This is not uncommon, but it is usually a matter of a respectful conversation about the above NEC articles. The “authority having jurisdiction” or AHJ is responsible for interpreting the code, and they can make any standard they see fit. While certain local legislation may supersede the NEC with additional regulations, the NEC is a nationally recognized standard throughout the U.S. It is rare that a building department will ignore entire articles of the NEC when it is brought to their attention in a respectful manner.
Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.
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