Lenovo’s latest Yoga laptop has an ARM processor and 25 hours of battery life | 19mm Momentary Push Button

There is a ton of great information online about almost every air conditioner available. You can find troubleshooting tips on manufacturer websites as well as message boards and blogs.

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Where a conventional SLR has an optical viewfinder, the Sony A33/55 substitutes an electronic display with an eyepiece attached. (An electronic viewfinder, or EVF for short.) The image for the EVF is taken from the main image sensor, so the camera is essentially always in "Live View" mode. Mechanically, the eyepiece projects out from the back of the camera a fair bit, to leave room for the camera’s autofocus system in front of the EVFs micro display and viewfinder optics. I found I actually liked this rear projection, as it left a bit more room for my nose when I held the camera to my eye. Happily, the neckstrap eyelets are arranged such that the camera hangs lens-down when on a neck strap, so I had no trouble with the projecting eyepiece poking me in the chest.

仲鑫达以“专业、 诚信、创新、合作、共赢”的经营理念、不断开发新产品、为客户提供优质服务、以最大限度追求客户满意、并不断开拓新领域业务。

I’d like to say that I’m also grateful to TJ and other contributors for their contributions, inputs and replies, I did learn things and this increased my awareness of potential hazards. [I’m basically a SW developer doing 3.3V electronics, so any insight on mains operations from those who have experience is welcome.] Even though there may be some unwarranted background noise, the discussion is interesting, and dealing with mains surely is worth a few questions. Not knowing is not a problem, not wanting to learn or daring to ask is…

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

I’ve been bit in a big way only three times. Two of the three were “Trust but don’t verify” issues, and I learned from them – always verify, no matter what anyone says.

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I bought an optically isolated unit that is a “Solid State Relay.” ( SSR)The insides are some kind of zero crossing SCR/TRIAC I’m sure but the key is that the input is a logic signal at a few ma anywhere between 4-30 VDC. This unit is rated to 250VAC at 50 amps. I use it with a foot switch and DC wall wart to turn my welder on and off. It DOES require a beefy heat sink for that kind of power but it hasn’t even broken a sweat (my welder uses around 40 amps give or take.) I would strongly recommend adapting this circuit to take advantage of one of the many available SSR’s out there and let a professionally made and UL certified device handle the mains side. You just drive one of these with the GPIO side here. Of course you can use a much smaller unit for doing the typical 15 Amp light circuits. I actually used such a unit controlled by an Arduino to switch a hot plate (1000 watts) on and off for my flow soldering rig where the Arduino automates the solder temperature profile. I think it is best to marry our “hacks” to these commercial components that have proven performance/certification for our mains. My two cents ‘

You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.

Theres a homebrew 80vdc @150amp supply in my cnc converted bridgeport, that runs the entire dc rail for the steppers and other stuff, its always scared me slightly because I know that the big transformer its based on has a mag field and when it collapses and it has some massive smoothing capacitors to boot, so I have masses of isolation distance everywhere the dc side runs and I disable the transformer with a dedicated switch while working in the cabinet of it. I had a stepper driver supplied directly off the rail go bad and it just had a large hole where it used to be. I just imagine that was a bit of me if I get tempted to get sloppy with it. I’ve never put much thought into getting electrocuted by a welder, I’ve tickled my finger with my 3 phase tig set more than a few times getting too close and giving a nice easy starting path to the startup pulse. Maybe I should, I’ve got a massive 3 phase 380v transformer tig that can do 375amp dc, that tends to throw all the breakers out while its saturating its massive transformer with the inrush current… I try to treat mains voltage with the respsect it deserves. Its a killer, but if you take sensible precautions and steps you can avoid it being you it happens to.

If you’re buying electricty at 15 cents per kWh, then it’ll cost you .15 * 10.5 = $1.58 to fully charge the Niro’s battery, which will propel the car 26 miles, at which point the gasoline engine kicks in, which gets 46 mpg.