When the cycling control opens, line voltage is taken away from the motor. The motor’s rotor decreases in speed. Thus, the back-EMF generated across the start winding decreases in magnitude. The relay’s coil now sees a lower back-EMF and no longer can generate enough magnetism in its iron core to keep contacts 1 and 2 open.
Remarkably, this big battery doesnât affect the utility of this not-a-crossover. Interior dimensions, including the 100.9 cubic foot total passenger volume and 19.4 cubes of luggage capacity, matches that of the standard Niro. That picture of the cargo hold shows a small bag that carries the charging cable, but itâs removable and fastens anywhere on the floor with hook-and-loop fasteners.
The triac can handle 8 amp continuously and upwards to 60 amps in surges. But the 8 amp is if heatsinked enough. If you insist on a 15 amp capability replace the triac with a 25-30 amp model instead. But will *still* need heatsinking. I triac usually drops upwards to 1 volt, so pushing 15 amps in a triac regardless of size will generate up to 15 watts, and that will generate a *lot* of head in a hurry.
The best defense is to make sure you buy from reputable sources, not from some backyard hardware store or eBay.
Only thing I can think is that it will send more current to high resistance loads like a human body, where lower voltage will send less. That’s the only thing inherently more dangerous about higher voltage, no?
Hey [Martin] I think you deserve some recognition for your contribution here tonight (or whatever time it is for you).
There are only two conductors run from the substation to a normal one phase installation. Those are live and neutral. Though the neutral is bonded to ground at the substation through the resistor and is also connected to earth at any and all points on the cable where any work is done it is still neutral. At the house the neutral and ground become separate conductors. The neutral is treated as a live wire when working on the system, as far as I know all utilities treat neutral as another phase for safety reasons.
And keep in mind that EVSEs are a continuous duty device. As such, you need to derate them from the circuit’s rating by 20%. So you should only use 12A on a 15A rated circuit. And you should only do that if you’re confident that there’s nothing else pulling significant current on EITHER circuit besides your EVSE.
A better choice is to spend a few hundred dollars to have an electrician install a dedicated 240-volt circuit – like those used for an electric clothes dryer – to take advantage of what’s called Level 2 charging. This can replenish a depleted battery in around four hours. You’ll also need to purchase an external Level 2 charging unit, which is also called the electric vehicle service equipment (EVSE).
Tomczyk is a professor of HVACR at Ferris State University, Big Rapids, MI, and the author of Troubleshooting and Servicing Modern Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Systems, published by ESCO Press. To order, call 800-726-9696. Tomczyk can be reached at [email protected] (e-mail).
Always pay attention to the safety warnings, and never underestimate the stupidity of anyone, most importantly your self.
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