Looking Mains Voltage In The Eye And Surviving | 220v Contactor Relay

A lot of times these days, it seems like we hackers are a little like kids in a candy store. With so many cool devices available for pennies at the click of a mouse, it’s temptingly easy to order first and ask questions about quality later. Most of the time that works out just fine, with the main risk of sourcing a dodgy component being a ruined afternoon of hacking when a part fails.

If you’re totally stumped on a page of Where’s Waldo and ready to file a missing persons report, you’re in luck. Now there’s a robot called There’s Waldo that’ll find him for you, complete with a silicone hand that points him out.

I don’t know where your grid is, but in North America, high voltage lines are not 100 kV. 19 kV and 69 kV are typical for local distribution. 115 or 138 kV for intra-city, and 230 or 500 kV for most long-haul lines, not counting the whacky HVDC or EHV stuff.

If you can power the logic side with some +5V derived from mains, there is no point keeping the optocouplers, right? Of course, the ESP would need to be programmed when unplugged from mains A/C, but with OTA, it should be possible to control it all wirelessly once the initial firmware setup is done, even more so with LUA where telnet over wifi can be used once initial setup is done. So now, what kind of circuitry is needed to hash mains A/C to +5V DC (or even better, directly +3.3V)? What’s in a commercial USB adapter? Greg

Once you have the outlet, a level two fast charger is as little as $150 for 16 Amp, which gives 3.5 kilowatts, or $300 for 30 Amps, 7 kilowatts.

Personally, I’m most excited about this for YouTube, since there’s never been a great, seamless way to make Sonos play audio from the leading video platform. Now you’ll just have to tap the AirPlay icon. There will likely be a bit of latency between sound and image with AirPlay 2, so it might not be ideal in all cases. But at least it’ll be a relatively easy option. Same goes for Netflix, HBO Now, and other apps that Sonos hasn’t previously supported on its end.

“I don’t think” – hehehe I’ll agree with that. My utility company provides 3rd world electricity in August. Most days the juice drops to 103 without anything on in the house. I’d love to have as much as 110. Fortunately, the L1 car charger works down to 100, and the L2 stuff works at 187 – the lowest I’ve measured. 5 big reasons why the juice is so bad, but then I’m not paying for the loss, so its not a biggie with me. Just worry a bit about the refrig and freezer.

110/220 is the load rating and 120/240 is what the circuit provides. The voltage could sag as low as 110 or 220 in use.

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I suppose a more flexible grid, with more cheap gas plants, which can fire up quickly, made this possible, as well as making the grid itself smarter. There was a rush to build gas power plants a while ago, since of course gas isn’t going to run out any time soon or anything.

You really should drop the 110/240 volts statements and use 120/240 volts for residential installs. I don’t think 110 volts has been used since Thomas Edison.

Halogen lamps hate being run at substantially less than full power! The additive (bromine or iodine) is used to keep the inside of the bulb clean and regenerate the filament, but it corrodes the filament if it’s not hot enough.