Think for a minute, what are you going to find inside that box? You need to consider what voltages it takes as a power supply, what it does with those voltages, where any hazardous voltages might lie inside it, and whether or not they are likely to be accessible once the cover is off. It’s important to realise that simply because an item isn’t mains-powered does not mean you no longer have to consider this, for example if you’ve ever opened a camera with a built-in flash you may have encountered a capacitor with several hundred volts remaining on it. Where is the high voltage going to be?
Online reviews are useful when you’re on the hunt for a trustworthy electrician. If the person with the lowest quote also has the worst ratings, it’s worth shelling out a bit more. If that cheaper electrician messes up, you’ll just need to call me (and my higher price) and pay more overall.
“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.
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Good safety design will deliberately include a point (usually mains input) at which the creepage clearance is lower than any other place on the circuit board. This almost guarantees a *predictable* result from an extreme over voltage event.
If you can power the logic side with some +5V derived from mains, there is no point keeping the optocouplers, right? Of course, the ESP would need to be programmed when unplugged from mains A/C, but with OTA, it should be possible to control it all wirelessly once the initial firmware setup is done, even more so with LUA where telnet over wifi can be used once initial setup is done. So now, what kind of circuitry is needed to hash mains A/C to +5V DC (or even better, directly +3.3V)? What’s in a commercial USB adapter? Greg
If ever there was a right time to change the name, it’s now, as this ground-up, all-new car launches with all the incumbent R&D investment and expectation you might expect for a vehicle that has been benchmarked to beat the class best. So while you might reasonably argue that it would have been more straightforward if the naming U-turn hadn’t been made several months after the car was unveiled as an Auris at this year’s Geneva motor show, the truth is that when Corollas start running down the line in Burnaston, Derbyshire in a few months time, surely only Google will recall it.
Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…
With the primaries wired together, the magnets are epoxy potted, the business end is faced off cleanly, and the whole thing put to the test. [MakeItExtreme] doesn’t go into control details in the video below, but the website mentions the magnet being powered off a 24V 15A power supply with battery backup in case of mains failure.
Attack of the giant hand? That’s what we called these shots when we took them. Despite the disparity between the size of my hand and the camera body, the grip was still fairly comfortable.
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220 volt +/- 10% isn’t really a good design standard. As it doesn’t live up to the requirements within the EU to start with.
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