Microsoft and Razer are working on Xbox keyboard and mouse support | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Washing machines etc. have their own 10-16A fuses. 3 phase 16A power is used for larger equipment, most commonly for semi-permanent installation like oven&stove combo and electric sauna stove. Those are usually connected to star, so single element in equipment will still see 230V.

Alternatively, the stillborn 42V automotive power standard is another solution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/42-volt_electrical_system

What about converting down to 12-24v AC for the bed with a ZVC switch going to the controller? It seems that running it off DC is wasteful but mains is relatively risky.

True enough; This hack goes back decades floor finishers who have large floor sanders use this hack to run their large sanders.

I don’t. I’m on my second ELECTRIC lawnmower, which by the time I bought a decent one cost me around $1600 for the two. I gave the first TORO away since it only had 1/3 hp on a good day. The current Snapper I have puts out a bit more than 1 hp and it is the first batter electric I’ve tried that had adequate power. Unfortunately, I need $600 of batteries to cut my lawn, but the fast charger can keep up with my lawn cutting so I can do my HUGE lawn and also a neighbors.

While contrast-detection AF systems these days are much faster than they used to be, phase-detection AF generally still has the edge in terms of outright speed. It also involves less hunting around the point of focus, since phase-detection systems can determine both the focus direction and the required adjustment. On the flip side, though, contrast-detection systems generally offer more precise focusing, since the image sensor itself is responsible for confirming the point of focus, without any reliance on the lens’s focus drive and AF sensor alignment being perfectly in spec.

Ah, sō desu ka… Time to get some more iron in my diet, if I’m going to continue this dangerous hobby.

Anyone that knows me really well, especially family members, is surprised/amazed that I’ve managed to be over 50 and still more or less bilaterally symmetrical, without too many visible scars.

The control buttons are for the most part intelligently arranged and readily accessible, but the small space available for them on the right side of the body does mean that you need to hold the camera in your left hand to be able to access them properly: They’re really too close to the right side of the camera to keep your fingers wrapped around the grip and operate the buttons with any degree of comfort. On the angled top/back panel, the EV adjust button is perfectly located, right under your thumb, with the AE lock and movie recording buttons on either side of it. The movie button does require a deliberate reach to get to, but is nonetheless easy to identify by feel when you’re looking through the viewfinder; just slide your thumb over until it hits the viewfinder housing, and you’ll be right on top of the movie button.

The IEC61010 category ratings on an Agilent multimeter. Medvedev [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia CommonsYour instruments such as multimeters, oscilloscopes, and their probes will all carry an appropriate safety rating for maximum voltage, surge voltage, and current. In modern equipment this will be denoted by specified classes each with their associated voltage defined under IEC 61010, though you may find older equipment with IEC348 or other national standard ratings (Fluke publishes a handy PDF explaining these standards in detail if you would like to know more). These ratings are important in ensuring that the instrument keeps you safe as you use it.

Electric blankets have lots of testing to ensure they’re safely insulated from the user. They also don’t get nearly as hot. They also use too much power to economically run from a low voltage PSU.

A few people made some useful design suggestions. I like the Power Integrations LNK switch suggestion for power. I’d also recommend looking at the SR086, which does the same thing — but it’s inductorless! That’s the chip I’m using for my ESP8266-based WiFi dimmer.