Seriously, it looks rather sparse inside, does it not? Perhaps some of you more electrically inclined/engineering types can chime in and let us know if $750 seems reasonable now that we know what’s inside?
[It looks like I’m on meds with all my grammar and spelling errors in the post – and I am actually Pain meds and muscle relaxant for a evil frozen shoulder….]
I don’t use my infrared camera as a quantitative tool; I use it as a qualitative tool. Yeah, I know, more blowhard words. Put simply, I’m not too concerned with the exact temperatures that are displayed on my infrared camera. As a home inspector, what I’m concerned with and what I dig into are the meanings behind unexpected temperature differences, aka anomalies.
Oversizing switching gear is good to some point but instead of relay withstanding surges I would prefer breaker that would protect everything.
The only place neutral is bonded to Earth ground is at your electrical panel, open it up and look at it. The white wires will all be screwed into a giant bus bar, which makes electrical contact with the electrical panel enclosure. All of the earth ground leads are also screwed into a bus-bar linking them all to Neutral.
A fun read is the Boeing’s space station power system document that describes the DC power system on the ISS: http://www.boeing.com/assets/pdf/defense-space/space/spacestation/systems/docs/ISS%20Electric%20Power%20System.pdf
You won’t always have to group them together through the app, either. If a Sonos device is playing AirPlay 2 audio, you can just push and hold the play button on an older Sonos speaker to have it automatically pick up that same source.
Electric blankets have lots of testing to ensure they’re safely insulated from the user. They also don’t get nearly as hot. They also use too much power to economically run from a low voltage PSU.
You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.
If you know the Wattage of the transformer and the input voltage of the oven then you can calculate the approximate current the primary (thicker wire) can carry. Example: 500W 220V gives 500 / 220 = 2.273 Amps. This is the current the coil is designed to carry, and this current should normally take the core close to saturation without generating too much heat. The coil resistance can be measured and an appropriate DC voltage applied. I suggest a current of around 1.5 times as long as the power is not ON permanently. Regarding the use of both coils, the secondary coil is much finer wire and will require a proportionately higher voltage. Assuming the output voltage to be 2500, then the current required will be 500 / 2500 or 0.2 A. The secondary coil has worse properties for dissipating heat, so I would only allow a 25% over current, but just try it and if it gets too hot to hold, reduce the voltage. Allow 20 minutes for the coil to cool between tests. Putting the coils in series, or in parallel does not make sense because they have such different characteristics: better to find two ovens with the same transformer and use both primary coils or both secondary coils, which can then be connected in series to raise the working voltage or in parallel to keep the voltage down but double the current. As someone has already said above, disconnecting the coil produces a spark, that in the secondary coil will be a very high voltage – use a totally enclosed switch rated at at least 250V 10 A, with a 100 Ohm resistor in series with a 0.1 microfarad capacitor across the coil to reduce the sparking and increase switch contact life.
▲ 仲鑫达配备资深的PLC可编程(自动化系统)技术工程师以及制氢系统设计开发工程师
I have been led to believe (largely by bigclive) that Fotek are OK but there are lots of fake Foteks out there.
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