Microsoft announces Xbox One keyboard and mouse support with Razer partnership | 19mm Momentary Push Button

One nice thing about the Sony A55 and A33′s electronic viewfinder is that the Fn menu is also available in the viewfinder display; you can make many camera settings without taking your eye from the viewfinder eyepiece. As I became more familiar with the camera’s controls, this led to a very efficient shooting style, although it would take more than the few days I’ve had with the camera thus far for this to become second nature.

“International” power supplies usually are specified for 100V (Japan) to 240V +/- 10%, i.e., 90-264V.

While the translucent mirror design isn’t quite as space-efficient as the mirrorless design of an SLD camera, it’s still smaller than that of a traditional SLR, most of which need to provide room for the mirror to swing upward before image capture can commence. That translates to an uncommonly compact body by SLR standards, although it’s still a bit larger than an SLD, especially in terms of body thickness. Unlike SLD cameras, though, the Sony SLT cameras all accept the entire line of standard Alpha-mount lenses, a significant advantage if you already own a large collection of Alpha-mount glass.

• Circuit conditions such as the peak voltage and current during the surge event • The MOV continuous operating voltage (should be at 20% above maximum system voltage under normal conditions) • The number of surges the MOV must survive • Acceptable let-through voltage for the protected circuit • Any safety standards with which the circuit must comply

You can burn your house down in many different ways. Knocking over a poorly placed candle, or dropping a napkin on the electric stove are much more likely than a fault in the wiring, and the insurance company will pay out just the same. They would have to show that you were grossly negligent.

Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.

It happens to the best of us. We power up our project and immediately run into issues. Be it spotty communication or microcontroller reset or any number of bugs that have us mystified and picking though our code… only to find that it’s a power supply issue. Anyone who has tried doing Raspberry Pi stuff and depended on the USB power from their PC has certainly been bit by this.

Interesting how both the sounds and the letters on a QWERTY keyboard for V and B are close enough that it’s possible to switch them by accident.

Finally, only consider charging units that have been tested and certified for safety by an independent source like Underwriters Laboratory (UL). And if you’re having a charger installed outdoors, make sure it’s rated for that purpose.

Ultimately under-rating won’t solve the problem. The Chinese scammers are already putting below-rated parts in, because they assume most users will under-rate anyway, so they’ll get away with it. If, in response to that, you under-rate even more, and this becomes mainstream, what do you think will happen? They’ll just take it into account, same as ever, and the 75A parts you’re putting 40A through, because you want to be careful, will only contain 20A triacs.

For example, you can assemble a computer and do anything you want with the low-voltage parts, but opening the PSU and fiddling with that is illegal in many parts of the world. IF the device later catches fire and the insurance company finds out it was modified by yours truly, they can deny coverage, and if your neighbor’s house burns along with yours they can sue you etc. etc.

Probably best to derate to 1.5x or 2x. But even then, are the “solder” conductors inside really going to be any different? Looking at then they appear to crate a conductor way bigger than 25A requires.