Microsoft announces Xbox One keyboard and mouse support with Razer partnership | Circuit Breaker Parts

I’ve built a 24 V heated bed for my DIY (as I call it) Mendel 90 XXL printer (400 x 400 mm print area). I use a 24 V 400 W LED power source and – since I already had a 12 V RAMPS – put a 24->12 V DC-DC converter in line with the RAMPS and driving a 24 V heating mat (for cars) via a DC solid state relay. As long as it’s not too cold in the room I get up to 60°C which is helpful for PLA but of course not sufficient for ABS (but I don’t want to breathe these ABS fumes anyway)… I’d rather use a thick cable (in combination with an energy chain) than playing with mains voltage.

Before we begin, we must begin with an obligatory disclaimer: handling mains voltage can be very dangerous. Do not do so unless you are qualified! You could burn your house down. (Without the lemons.) That being said, [TJ] has created an interesting dev board for controlling mains voltage over WiFi with the now-ubiquitous ESP8266 module. At only 50mm x 25mm, it is easily small enough to fit inside a junction box!

公司自成立以来始终坚持以纯电子商务模式运营、缩减中间环节、为客户在第一时间提供优质的产品及满意的服务、为您的生产以及采购工作提供‘安全 快捷 方便’公司拥有完善的物流供应系统、现已与众多国外知名品牌生产厂商建立了良好的合作关系。

I can’t speak for 75 mph, but the EPA for the regular hybrid Niro is high 40s to 50 mpg highway. Since this car uses the same Atkinson cycle 1.6L engine, I’d expect about the same fuel economy.

Personally, I would always design for the full rated power load of the outlet. Sure you will be aware of the limitations of the switch but not everyone reads the specs and you don’t want to blow up your switch when someone inadvertently plugs in a vacuum cleaner.

253V above. The 3% voltage reduction equalled 5% of the load and 6% voltage reduction 10% of the load I seem to remember. Over 15 years ago.

You also have cables running from the power distribution system and over to the servers, if we halve the current in these lines, then we quarter the power dissipation in these cables. This is both true for the power cords, and for the internals in the power supply as well. At least for the “AC” side of it.

A decent quality electrician’s screwdriver will have its insulation voltage rating stamped on its handle, though the absence of a rating is not necessarily a reason not to use it. A lot of screwdrivers have first-rate insulated handles, but without a voltage rating because they are sold for general-purpose use rather than specifically electronic. When you choose a screwdriver or other tool, consider the amount of plastic it puts between you and the metal, and pick accordingly. Wooden handles may not provide adequate protection, and metal handles should be avoided at all costs.

HVDC interties certainly simplifies some things (stability, voltage control, and frequency syncing & phasing is a non-issue), particularly in lines where their length approaches a quarter wavelength (which makes voltage control at the load end difficult). There are quite a few already: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_HVDC_projects and the list is growing rapidly.

It calls out a MOC3041M on the silkscreening. One can use a MOC3041 of course as they are the same form factor.

Opto-isolated TRIAC is fine and dandy, but there is no fuse, so if you overload it, you have a cooking TRIAC in your junction box …

I’m glad you are aware of all of the many issues surrounding this kind of a hack. I spent 15 years as a commercial electrician, so the first thing that I did when I started to read this was think, “Oh, crap. Someone’s going to kill themselves.” I’m glad that’s not the case here.