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If you wrap your own coil, consider wrapping a thermistor or thermocouple into the windings. Insides may heat up before outsides. Expoxies have limits. You don’t want failure halfway up 50 stories, whether mangni-shoes or a load of pig iron.

Cooking Triac? In my experience there are only good Triacs and bad Traics. You can tell the bad Triacs because they usually have a a little bit of plastic encasing still attached to the three legs after they have exploded.

The only people having trouble with L1 are those DOPES who haven’t read their owner’s manuals. There all EV manuals state that car charging is a heavy continuous load, and it requires high-quality receptacles that have been tested to make sure they are safe by someone competent.

This is overkill. You don’t need a safety-ECU for this. It is much safer to use the thermal fuse(s) you mention and they are sufficient. If the safety can done without CPU intervention, then do it. 2mil Kapton may have this standoff voltage, but it is scratched easily. I would bond the (high-tg FR4) PCB heater with silicone to a glassplate (pyrex or something).

I liked your article. It had a lot of good pointers for others. It may be a good idea to add a red indicator between neutral and ground for the two incoming 120v lines. That way, if the hot and neutral are reversed, the light will come on.

You now have a Tesla 3 correct? What is the efficiency hit by using 120 volts? It used to be a 30% hit for the S,X, Roadster, and new Rav4Ev with the Tesla drivetrain, Meanwhile 12 amps at 115 for a VOLT is quite efficient.

It’s OK, you can admit it — from the time you first saw those huge electromagnetic cranes in scrap yards you’ve wanted to have one. While it may not fling around a car, parts donated from scrapped microwaves can let you build your own electromagnetic lifting device and make that dream finally come true.

With mains electricity, always work one handed or wear live like I did in the day, 11KV gloves when testing 11KV circuits via test probes.

It calls out a MOC3041M on the silkscreening. One can use a MOC3041 of course as they are the same form factor.

The third incident was also while I was working for the welding repair company. I had a previously perfectly working high-pot tester and needed to test the insulation on a transformer. The tester itself failed and shorted to the case – and I took 11kv AC to the fingers just by turning the power on. That stung a bit, but I got a new high-pot out of the deal, so a net positive.

But there are some compromises that come with more fluid visuals. Samsung’s FreeSync mode only supports 1080p resolution for now, and the company notes that it might cause some random weirdness with the TV’s brightness at times. Probably still worth switching on just to see the difference it makes.

But 110/120v A/C? that stuff is baby-play, as long as you realize that you shouldn’t use both hands, or use grounding straps, it just kinda buzzes, I’ve played around with TENS devices that had more (felt) kick than it…