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HOWEVER: these are NOT 180 degrees out of phase. It is more like 120 degrees. I am taking it that America also has 3 phase supplies, rather than 2.

Bottom line, while the Sony A33′s EVF doesn’t entirely conquer the challenges of its genre, it goes further in the right direction than any other I’ve experienced to date. Most telling is that I now find myself reluctant to give up its benefits and return to world of purely optical viewfinders once again.

Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.

At least you thought about fuse and earth ground wire. Hopefully you also kept the thermal fuse of the iron – normally they have one to prevent fire in case of a welded thermostat contact (or short circuit in the solid state relay). And hopefully you kept or built a good case for all this (the open part of the iron).

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A bright idea. The Sony A33′s LCD screen sports a super-bright "Sunny Weather" mode. It loses some highlights, but makes the viewfinder remarkably usable in direct sunlight. Shot in direct afternoon sunlight, the sequence above gives you some idea of the effect.

Translucent (pellicle) mirror. Undoubtedly the biggest story of the Sony SLT-series cameras is their use of a translucent mirror. Also known as pellicle mirror, this works by allowing most light to pass through to the imaging surface beneath, while a small portion is reflected for other purposes. Sony is not the first camera manufacturer to use a translucent mirror in an SLR-style camera, with the manual focus Canon Pellix film camera from 1965 taking that credit. The Pellix was followed by a handful of other pellicle mirror-based SLRs from Canon, Nikon, and Mamiya, largely designed for professional photographers, and manufactured in very limited production runs. It wasn’t until 1989′s Canon EOS RT that the first autofocus pellicle camera was released, followed by the EOS-1N RS in 1995. Fifteen years later, Sony has become the first company to resurrect the pellicle mirror for use in an interchangeable lens digital camera.

SSRs can actually contain what is used here: optocoupler+triac or they may use optocoupler+mosfet. Just like individual triacs you will find that they suffer from the same issue: high power dissipation. A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load, I see 6W for the first 10A SSR I encounter. This is too much to dissipate in a small junction box isolated inside a wall. Meanwhile, a 10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts.

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…

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A vaccum forming table design I looked at used ceramic rods made the same way with reflectors to evenly distribute the heat. I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design.

This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.

When a circuit breaker has a lot of current flowing through it, it will get warm. The warm 15-amp circuit breaker shown below had a 15.6-amp hair dryer running for about 20 minutes, and it warmed up to about 17 degrees over ambient. It wasn’t especially hot, but it was definitely overloaded.

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