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This! I just want to add: >3. Verify that the system is really dead. Use an appropriate tool. Test the tool, test if the system is dead, retest the tool. It should be broken or may have broke while testing. >Use nonflammable clothes. Yes! Synthetic materials melts, sticks to your skin and burns – you don’t want this! >Use electrically protective gloves. and check them before use! Do not work alone and if the second person has no clues about electricity instruct him: -What NOT to touch. -CUT THE CURRENT before trying to help somebody that has been electrocuted. -Where the main breaker is and how to operate it. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket (if you catch fire) handy.

My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.

Yes, I know that I’m just offloading my energy use to my residential electric service (which is, around here at least, produced mostly by coal or natural gas). Let’s leave that discussion for somewhere else. The impact at the fuel pump is what matters here. Spending eight dollars or less every week to drive to and from the cube farm is incredibly appealing.

The first was working with a bench buddy on a military SSB Shortwave amp. My bench buddy assured me he had powered the system down and unplugged everything necessary, and I trusted him. I reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plate voltage supply on the amp tube, and got hit by 26kv DC. Shouted and was teleported backwards about 3 feet, but no damage done (except a small melted bit on the end of the pliers).

Some heaters are a coil of Alloy wire cast in ceramic and then enclosed in a stainless steel tube. Basically a bad inductor, but still having the surge properties of one. Same with big boy halogen bulbs.

Actually there are checklists, especially for people working on substations and other really high voltage/high energy stuff. But if a moron decides to skip the checklist it won’t help you any. Checklist are not infallible, not even in aviation.

And use a power circuit with a differential circuit breaker so if you touch live wire it will disconnect.

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

You need to learn how to read a datasheet and understand the terms – without an understanding it won’t do you any good.

This new hybrid powertrain is more of a success than any that has gone before it at Toyota, thereby widening the options for buyers, and its warm performance will make it an interesting choice. However, with similar gains promised on the 1.8-litre drivetrain, and the incumbent money-saving gains it has, it remains to be seen which will be the pick of the range. 

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets

No, he is using a MC3041 to drive a BT137 which can handle 8 amps continuously (if properly heatsinked).