Beside the Canadian electrical code require fully dedicated 20 amps circuit for 120 volts vehicule charging. Common receptacle are week and cheap and are worn by abuse plugins and pulling all sorts of appliances in and out.
But it seems our society is structured so that a lack of morals, and inability to feel empathy (but ability to fake it, when needed), can lead certain ambitious and capable individuals right up to where they can do a lot of harm. There’s so many political decisions, particularly in the UK, where “fuck ’em” must have been the answer to any qualms about the needy. Even to the point of ill people killing themselves, and even a few who’ve starved to death.
I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.
I have seen a 10cm hole blown right through the middle of circuit board. I have had many repair jobs that it’s been obvious that lightning has hit the overhead power lines, exploded parts, vaporised PCB traces. Non of these had any negative outcomes except having to repair the device or throwing it in the bin, generally the latter.
This is called Level 1 charging, and assuming you already have basic electric service in your garage, it’s the cheapest way to go. Unfortunately, it’s also the slowest. Depending on the vehicle and its battery capacity, it can take anywhere from eight to nearly 24 hours to bring its power cells up to a full charge.
Ahh, my late, late night read of the datasheet for the MOC3041M, which the schematic initially? called out but then was changed to a MOC3041 had the mains load being carried by the MOC3041/M triac, not the BT137 triac. Good catch. The triac should still be able to handle 15 amps, not just 8. And I agree, I don’t see any heatsinking.
220 volt +/- 10% isn’t really a good design standard. As it doesn’t live up to the requirements within the EU to start with.
If you can power the logic side with some +5V derived from mains, there is no point keeping the optocouplers, right? Of course, the ESP would need to be programmed when unplugged from mains A/C, but with OTA, it should be possible to control it all wirelessly once the initial firmware setup is done, even more so with LUA where telnet over wifi can be used once initial setup is done. So now, what kind of circuitry is needed to hash mains A/C to +5V DC (or even better, directly +3.3V)? What’s in a commercial USB adapter? Greg
Not at all. One lumberjack pushes while the other pulls, and they’re both pushing and pulling against the ground. It’s fits perfectly.
Window AC units blast for hours at time and use massive amounts of energy. An extension cord—and usually even sharing the circuit powering your AC with something else—overloads the wires. If they get too hot, the wires could short out and start a fire. Make sure the unit gets its own circuit, meaning a switch on your electrical panel dedicated to your AC and nothing else. Here are 11 more home safety risks and how to avoid them.
User interface. Sony has retained a similar menu system in the Sony A33 to that previously featured in the Alpha series DSLRs, but incorporating the new database-driven Playback mode from the NEX-series SLD models. The user interface of the Sony A33 is generally clean and easy to understand, with the one major exception being the rather arbitrary segregation of still images and videos in playback mode. Switching between viewing stills and videos requires the user to either enter the menu system, or zoom out to the thumbnail view and select the appropriate tab. Neither option is immediately obvious without reading the manual, and photographers unfamiliar with the interface might believe they’d accidentally deleted the unavailable media, not realizing they were simply in the wrong viewing mode.
This is true in a certain temperature range, I think between 70 and 90% of their nominal power. And in spite of that there are so many lamps with halogen bulbs, which are fitted with dimmer circuits. And you know why? Because the bulbs are very cheap, so nobody cares 
And they are often used as heating elements: in a professional reflow oven (3000,- euro class) and in laser printers. But in the end I think for the heated print bed you do NOT want a radiative heat source, it complicates the things
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