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Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.

My Tesla Model 3 came a week ago, Thursday, and I traded in my Volt. So, I swapped out the NEMA L6-20, for an Eaton box with NEMA 14-50 receptacle, 8ft of 6-4 wire, and a 50 amp double-pole breaker. About $75 at Lowes. Yes, the Tesla came with a L2 EVSE that charges at 32 amps. You could buy the Tesla HPWC for $350, I think, but it’s totally not necessary for most.

• A 24-V dc circuit • Current waveform for surge is 8 × 20 μs; voltage waveform is 1.2 × 50 μs (these are typical industry-standard waveforms) • Peak current during the surge = 1000 A • The MOV must be able to survive 40 surges • Other circuit components (control IC, etc.) must be rated to withstand 300 V maximum

Many people do not own their own home and must deal with a landlord, who may feel that providing a high-quality 110 volt receptacle for the car to recharge is the end of their responsibility.

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The MOT cores are welded to the head, so they’re not coming loose without shearing. The sole purpose of the epoxy would be to keep the coils mounted to the cores (as well as keeping them free of damaging debris that would short the coils.) The only force the epoxy sees is from the eddy currents trying to push the coils away from the core (or vice-versa.) That energy then becomes the electromagnetic force that gets “transferred” to the ferrous cores – that are welded to the head. Since the force from the eddy current is fairly weak, there’s an low extremely low risk for such a failure. Not impossible, but it would take a catastrophic failure.

253V above. The 3% voltage reduction equalled 5% of the load and 6% voltage reduction 10% of the load I seem to remember. Over 15 years ago.

people remember “the good old days” and they forget all about the horrible accidents and fires and massive death that came from ignoring fire regulations

The use of isolation transformers that is suggested here is very dangerous as the residual current detector of the installation won’t detect anything if one gets electrocuted from the secondary of the transformer. I’d rather not use an isolation transformer unless I really need.

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The plug-in Kia Niro has an 8.9 kWh battery (vs. 1.6 kWh in the regular car). You can quickly estimate the amount of kWh you used in the week as long as the battery was fully drained every time you plugged the car in (it’s fully drained if the gasoline engine kicks in) and you know how many times you charged the car.

All this stuff makes me think it might be time to get a Faraday cage installed around my heart. Or maybe a big shunt from shoulder to shoulder.

I know this goes against what many of you have been told and understood your entire career, but take a deep breath and read on.

I was trying to make a point: the design uses an zero crossing detector so it cannot dim, therefore there is no point in complaining that a relay would not be useful for dimming.


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