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At the risk of being labeled a pedant, I’ll remind you that Mike isn’t billed for power, he’s billed for energy, and you didn’t say how *long* you’d expect to draw 3 kW for free.

Very interesting article. Being in the “treat it like radioactive anthrax” crowd, I rarely mess with mains level voltage, but I got a peek at what is required to do so. I read the paragraph about the “residual current circuit breaker” and thought it sounded very much like a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). I clicked the link and sure enough, that was exactly what it was. I was surprised the article didn’t immediately describe it as such, but as mentioned in the Wiki that the link led to, only the US and Canada call it that.

In the case of an opto-couple my ‘rule of thumb’ is for the min to be the distance between the pads on left and right rows of pins. ie nothing under the opto at all apart from the pads connecting the pins.

He’s not using a pool side remote box but emulating it. But what if he wanted to use both? At the moment it’s simulating the buttons. What if you need to both simulate the buttons and also read them if they are pressed?

3TY7520-0A

▲ 同时本公司还专业从事老机组制氢系统的自动化改造维修保养和大修工作,在为国内外众多厂家的服务过程中,积累了极其丰富的安装、调试和运行的经验,为用户提供了系统的管理、运行及商务等各方面优质、及时、周到、热忱的服务。

The one thing some users might find distracting about the Sony A33′s EVF is the RGB "rainbows" you can see when either your eye, the subject, or the camera is moving rapidly. Each pixel of the display shows its red, green, and blue information sequentially, so if the viewfinder image is moving rapidly relative to your eye, you’ll see red, green, and blue ghosts or trails around bright objects. I didn’t notice this at all until someone pointed it out to me, but after they did, it became unreasonably annoying for a while. After a couple of days of shooting with the camera, though, I again became largely unaware of it and now have to deliberately look for it to be aware of the effect.

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

Potential starting relays consist of a high resistance coil and a set of normally closed contacts. The coil is wired between terminals 2 and 5, with the contacts between terminals 1 and 2.

3TY7520-0A

This! I just want to add: >3. Verify that the system is really dead. Use an appropriate tool. Test the tool, test if the system is dead, retest the tool. It should be broken or may have broke while testing. >Use nonflammable clothes. Yes! Synthetic materials melts, sticks to your skin and burns – you don’t want this! >Use electrically protective gloves. and check them before use! Do not work alone and if the second person has no clues about electricity instruct him: -What NOT to touch. -CUT THE CURRENT before trying to help somebody that has been electrocuted. -Where the main breaker is and how to operate it. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket (if you catch fire) handy.

https://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

Norm, remember your high school electrical classes, and don’t confuse the young ‘uns here. I’m sure you’ll recall that halving the current reduces losses (heating) in a conductor to one quarter: losses are proportional to the square of the current.

This time, though, he says he’ll only change course once the Senate votes on a binding bill. Now, it’s up to McConnell.


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