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I would prefer, use a circuit (SCR?) to lower the voltage to around a safer value, where we won’t have any problem in the worse case.

Continuous shooting. As well as allowing full-time AF during live view and movie capture, the translucent mirror design of the Sony Alpha A33 brings another important advantage. During burst shooting with continuous autofocus, a traditional SLR has to drop its mirror between each frame, wait just long enough for any mirror vibration to settle, perform the AF measurement, and then raise the mirror again so that the next frame can be captured. Using a pellicle mirror, there’s no reflex mirror to raise, and so the only delay required is to wait for the lens aperture to open after the exposure has been completed. For even swifter burst shooting, the aperture can be locked at either F3.5, or the maximum aperture of the lens, whichever is smaller, removing the delay required to set and reset the aperture to allow focusing between shots. The Sony A33 offers burst shooting at up to six frames per second ordinarily, but with the aperture locked in Continuous Priority AE shoots even faster, providing a very respectable seven frames per second. (Its sibling, the A55, is even swifter with a whopping ten frames per second in Continuous Priority AE mode.) Sony also notes that, for like framerates, the autofocus system in the Alpha A33 can be active for a greater proportion of the time compared to a traditional SLR, providing more data from which to make AF tracking predictions.

Yup, switched off but still plugged in, that way the case is still earthed. Assuming a sensible 3-pin plug, or whatever the hell they do in places with just 2.

Depends how far north you are – direct sunlight isn’t required for them to produce useful heat. If you’ve got a months long night then they’re no use though.

When using the Sony A33 with a neckstrap and particularly light lens, this might cause it to bump against your body, but with even moderately heavy lenses the camera will turn face-down even though this doesn’t match the strap mount alignment, and this won’t be an issue. A positive side-effect of the EVF positioning is that it makes it easier to keep your nose from smudging the LCD panel. Given the relatively tight eyepoint of the electronic viewfinder, the projection also helps prevent the photographer having to jam the camera to their face to see the entire viewfinder display.

No need, really. You just need a few mates with smartphones – just enable the wifi hotspot on each of them, place them roughly in a circle and put your coffee in the center. Make sure to dismantle the circle before you reach in for your cup though if you don’t want to get fried too – safety first!

They make silicone pad heaters for automotive stuff like someone else mentioned, that would probably work too.

I work with high voltage all day everyday except for weekends, and then I’m probably doing some wiring or something at my house. 480VAC is on the low end of the voltage scale for what I do. The biggest and most important safety tip is: “Know thy equipment.”. That means knowing where the 480VAC is coming in, everything it powers, where that voltage gets stepped up to thousands of volts, what chassis and assemblies are floating at high voltage, at what point of the turn on sequence they are at high voltage, knowing what to use a chicken stick on when things are powered down (i.e. the high voltage bits – BUT NEVER AC MAINS!!!). I’ve seen the ends of chicken sticks where the unknowing tried to short 480VAC to ground… thank el diablo for fast acting circuit breakers… If you do not know what the hell you are doing or think suiting up in some silly bomb suit and silly gloves that are going to get you killed faster with than without, you need to stay the hell away from anything over 28 volts…. You cannot troubleshoot everything with LOTO, you sure as hell can’t troubleshoot with big stupid gloves and a bomb suit on. Those things were invented by desk jockeys who have never had to work on anything themselves in their lives. Great for theory, terrible for getting shit done. Knowledge is the only thing that will keep you safe. Stupidity and trusting others to keep you safe will kill you.

Growing up in a family surrounded by electricians, we were always discussing codes and theory around the house. Much of what I know came second-hand through my dad but also through Mike Holt, a well-known electrical author and instructor I now have the privilege of calling a friend.

The QD terminals I buy are not the crappy ones you get at Home Depot. I buy 10 gauge Molex AviKrimp ones from DigiKey. They’re ~33 cents each at Q:250. They are no joke. I use them in the high current path of OpenEVSEs that I build for up to 24A, and they perform perfectly.

I have never seem a ‘cooked’ TRIAC or a TRIAC that is not working properly unless it has exploded.

If you use 24V for 120W, you only need 5 amps. That’s not much. A good mosfet shouldn’t even get warm at 5A, and you don’t need very fat wires.