Evil Triacs, should be banned by Law anywhere in the World. How is looking a dimmer with Relays? I will love to see a picture. Or an evening filmed youtube video with it, the contact sparks are a free added effect, nice one
In plain English, what that means is that the thing AIN’T CERTIFIED FOR ANYTHING. It just means the device has met MINIMAL safety concerns, when operated under typical conditions. It doesn’t say anything about out-of-the-ordinary conditions.
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This causes some headaches for a friend who has to deal with unaware contractors installing 240VAC or 220 VAC devices in condo kitchens what have 208VAC, not 240VAC. Some devices don’t work, some don’t work well.
If you’re commenting on my mention of clothes-dryers and stoves that was merely editorial. Plus, my house has one on the stove but I don’t particularly want to pull the stove out and unplug it so you can charge your car.
I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.
Please define “chicken stick”. Your story reads as if you were putting state-fair-food into your electrical equipment.
Interesting how both the sounds and the letters on a QWERTY keyboard for V and B are close enough that it’s possible to switch them by accident.
Reuben Saltzman is a second-generation home inspector with a passion for his work. Naturally, this blog is all about home inspections and home-related topics in the Twin Cities metro area. In addition to working at Structure Tech, he is also a licensed Truth-In-Sale of Housing Evaluator in Minneapolis, Saint Paul and several other cities.
Snap! Didn’t even get the first instrument lit. I began to investigate. Wiring size, check. Dimmer output side breaker, still on. Go further down the line and find that the electrician had indeed taken care of it. He re-did my calculations, which at full nominal load looked like a 15 amp breaker on the input side of the dimmer would work just fine. What they didn’t realize is that when you bring an instrument or instruments (depending on the circuit) to full on, you go beyond even 20 amps for just a moment, then it goes down to about 13 amps.
Probably best to derate to 1.5x or 2x. But even then, are the “solder” conductors inside really going to be any different? Looking at then they appear to crate a conductor way bigger than 25A requires.
And if your primary and secondary are of different wire gauges, the thinner one becomes your limiting current factor. Wired in parallel gives the same ampere-turn count, but with less resistance, possible more AMPeres, so more aoere-turns.
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