All EVs come with a means to be connected to the power grid. Technically speaking, the charging station that converts AC house current into DC electricity is built into the vehicle. Most models include a basic 110-volt charging unit that plugs into a standard electric outlet via a conventional three-prong plug.
These rules of thumb are referring to the amperage capacity or “ampacity” of the conductor (wire) and are often correct. Sometimes, these general rules lead technicians to believe that if an appliance is rated for 50-amp breaker/fuse maximum overcurrent circuit protector (MOCP), you must use 6-gauge wire and a 50-amp circuit breaker.
Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.
Funny story : one of my friend had a real electrical problem in his house : earth not well connected or whatever. You could get shocked by touching an USB shield while bare foot. Handling something without a case like a raspi was a living hell.
You know very well, I hope, that for dimming you need to use a random phase optoisolator not a zero-crossing one. Like MOC3020/21 for example. This is in the command/trigger circuit for the Mains swiching Triac. Now show us your Relay driven dimmer beauty concept. Is good to learn something new everyday.
I disagree, I think L1 EVSE represent a real safety concern. People use corroded outdoor outlets, poorly wired outlets, extension cords (without proper checking for damage or heat build up), etc.
The Death Star post illustrates why we shouldn’t let economists decide how to run things. That and a million other stories from real life.
I stuck a finger in a light socket when I was about 3 years old back in Brooklyn NY and got a momentary buzz sensation. Nothing more. I got a few more 110V shocks as a US Army Air Force student of electronics back in 1944. No problems but I was warned to keep my left hand in my pocket in uncertain situations to not form a circuit through my heart, Here in Helsinki where I now live I have taken 220 V a couple of times. Nothing I’d recommend but no harm done. Nevertheless, I’m careful and never fool around with wet hands.
So, for the assumptions I made here, it’ll cost about the same amount of money out of your pocket to use electricty to propel your Niro and it does to use gasoline. If electric rates are higher than 15 cents/kWh (easily possible, at least here), then it’s more expensive to use the battery. There may good reasons to get the plug-in version of the Niro instead of the regular hybrid version, but saving money doesn’t appear to be one of them.
Installing a ceiling fan might not sound complicated, but it’s nothing like putting together a barbecue yourself. You’re trying to figure out the motor while hoisting a 70-pound fan 12 feet above the floor. Call me up—I can finish the job faster and safer than you could.
For instance, when I test a car that specifically touts efficiency, I always plan a relatively rigorous regimen of fuel economy measurements, including filling and refilling the tank at the same pump, and maintaining a consistent driving style. But then a school bus is late and I have to rush to the office, keeping me from the fuel pump before the car goes away â and keeping my foot to the floor a bit more than ideal. Or a charging plug falls out of the wall socket youâve been meaning to replace for a decade.
Try it- measure the voltage between the neutral and earth ground pin on a North American outlet. If the voltage is near zero, then you have a bonded ground system. If you see 1V or more, then you either do not have a bonded ground, or you have poor / undersized / or very long wire runs between the breaker box and the point you’re measuring.
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