Motor Nameplate Current vs. NEC Full Load Current Values | National Electrical Code | Circuit Breaker Parts

The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…

Personally, I’m most excited about this for YouTube, since there’s never been a great, seamless way to make Sonos play audio from the leading video platform. Now you’ll just have to tap the AirPlay icon. There will likely be a bit of latency between sound and image with AirPlay 2, so it might not be ideal in all cases. But at least it’ll be a relatively easy option. Same goes for Netflix, HBO Now, and other apps that Sonos hasn’t previously supported on its end.

Electricity is complicated and dangerous. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you could start a fire or get electrocuted—sometimes fatally. Pretty much anything beyond plugging something into the wall should be left to a professional. The cost of my visit is nothing compared to the price of your safety. Here are 12 more home improvement projects you should never DIY.

24v 12a is not that much more at 288watts. I’m sure I’m missing something to do with electromagnetism which makes the secondary unnatractive?

Popular brands of EVSEs include ClipperCreek (one of the first companies to get into the home changing business), Siemens, JuiceBox, AeroVironment, and ChargePoint, among others. An online search can help you find a unit that comes with the features and power output that meets both your needs and budget. To make matters easier, you can purchase either of three popular ClipperCreek charging units directly from MyEV.com. Coming in both portable and hard-wired configurations, they’re priced between $379 and $565. Each of our EV for sale listings features them under a “shop for chargers” tab, or can check them out via this link.

Speaking of mains power and gas pipes, I live in a 100-year-old house which has some rather dubious wiring (though, perhaps not as bad as the knob-and-tube it started with). The kitchen’s gas range had been in place since puke green was the preferred color, and its power cord (for the clock & timer) was, unbeknownst to me, seriously frayed. The range’s gas inlet was connected to the shutoff valve on the wall with one of those scary-looking flexible tubes (not a modern, yellow insulated one, but rather bare metal). Well, one day the range got pushed back for cleaning, and the exposed hot lead in its power cord brushed that gas line. ZAP!, followed by a roaring jet of flame from the large hole now in the flimsy gas line. I couldn’t get close enough to the shutoff valve to use it, so I had the frantically seek out a big wrench and shut off the gas where it enters the house in the basement. By then the wall behind the range was well and truly aflame (way too big for my wimpy little fire extinguisher to deal with), so I threw pans of water on the fire. I figured the breaker for the outlet the range was plugged into had already tripped, but it later turned out that the contact had been too brief for that and I was throwing water on a live electrical circuit–no harm came of that, fortunately.

Once you’ve  established these ground rules you can then tailor your approach based on a realistic expectation of the risk involved. This process might seem rather long-winded, but in practice it should only require a moment’s thought. It’s infinitely better to take that moment to think than get an unexpected and possibly lethal high-voltage electric shock.

And use a power circuit with a differential circuit breaker so if you touch live wire it will disconnect.

Step 4:  Use the V-I curve (Fig. 3) in the MOV’s datasheet to verify that leak voltage will be less than the 300-V ceiling.

Once you have the outlet, a level two fast charger is as little as $150 for 16 Amp, which gives 3.5 kilowatts, or $300 for 30 Amps, 7 kilowatts.

In this case, multiply the number of times you charged the car by 8.9 kWh for a low estimate of electric power consumed. For a better estimate, you need to know what the battery charging losses are. It takes more than 8.9 kWh to charge an 8.9 kWh battery – some of the power gets lost to heat. I can’t find authoritative data, but posters on Tesla forums claiming to have measured this report losses between 10 and 20%. If you assume it’s 15%, then it’ll take 8.9 / (1 – .15) = 10.5 kWh to charge the Niro’s battery.

But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.