Motor Nameplate Current vs. NEC Full Load Current Values | National Electrical Code | Circuit Breaker Parts

The Death Star post illustrates why we shouldn’t let economists decide how to run things. That and a million other stories from real life.

Attack of the giant hand? That’s what we called these shots when we took them. Despite the disparity between the size of my hand and the camera body, the grip was still fairly comfortable.

If your electrical panel can’t handle a Level 2 EVSE then chances are it needs replacement anyway. Putting in my ClipperCreek was the push I needed to finally do what I should have done 20 years ago which was to replace my 1960s panel with a modern one. The new panel is much safer than the old one and having a permanent LVSE is increadably convenient. You have a $50-$60K car, it makes no sense not to spend $1K on an EVSE, you paid more than that for the paint on your Model 3. I spent $40K for my Volt, before Fed and State rebates, so another 1K to buy and install a CC was nothing and likewise the $2800 I spent on the new 200A panel isn’t a lot when compared to the price of a Chevy let alone the price of a Tesla.

I do not recommend diy 120/240 volt AC in this application. While you are correct that the higher voltage allows lower current draw, you are not proposing limiting the current, which can be very dangerous. If your hands were wet with sweat, you would act as a lower resistance path to any available ground you might be touching. In much the same way a hot dog will cook with 120 AC poet applied to each end, you will do considerable damage to your skin, muscle, and fat tissues along the current path. Use DC power, a larger wire, and maintain the safety margin. One trip to the ER will buy many hundreds of meters of wire and plenty of DC power supplies. Oh, and by the way, I’m an electrical engineer.

Tomczyk is a professor of HVACR at Ferris State University, Big Rapids, MI, and the author of Troubleshooting and Servicing Modern Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Systems, published by ESCO Press. To order, call 800-726-9696. Tomczyk can be reached at [email protected] (e-mail).

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

When building my printer, I also didn’t like the then state-of-the-art heated PCBs. Thus, I ordered a bespoke silicone heater mat from China, mains voltage, 400 Watts of heater power. Add an aluminium plate to the top and ground it, and safety will be sufficient. I use an SSR embedded into a wall-wart form factor project case with plenty of snubber circuits. Cons: More expensive than a PCB Pros: Heats up incredibly quickly, reasonably priced, won’t get damaged by prolonged high temperature, easy to make non-life-threatening.

The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.

PCB coatings seal off remaining PCB contaminations and go some way to reducing the presence of future contaminations that may promote water condensation. That is all PCB coatings do! There is no point coating over solder connections as these may be re-soldered in service. Even a coated PCB will have condensing water at very high humidities and favourable temperature differences.

Rob complains that the board isn’t laid out for 240 VAC — yet I see ample clearance between traces. Other users complain that the board isn’t designed to drive a full 15A load, yet most commercially-available, UL-listed dimmers I’ve seen are rated for 800W or less. The Lutron dimmers I paid almost $30 a pop for only do 600W.

I found the Sony A33 and A55′s AF tracking to be very fast and pretty accurate; almost too fast in some cases: If I let the central AF point wander off the subject for a fraction of a second, focus would quickly shift to the background. Many of the missed-focus shots I took were the result of this problem, versus the camera not being able to track focus quickly enough. Some high-end DSLRs have settings in their autofocus systems to adjust how quickly they respond to momentary loss of the subject. (Either from the AF point drifting off the subject, or for some interfering object passing between the subject and camera.) If Sony were able to add this capability to the A33/55, it could go a long way to reducing the number of missed shots, at least based on my experience.

But yes, 1A is the absolute maximum, peak value for the MOC3041M for a brief amount of time. Even the MOC3041’s 8A maximum, temporary rating is unsuitable as a peak for a typical 15A US mains.