Motor Nameplate Current vs. NEC Full Load Current Values | National Electrical Code | Circuit Breaker Parts

The crimp terminals I am using are rated for 24A, and I am using a ratcheting crimping tool. I have checked, and therefore I do not believe you.

A bright idea. The Sony A33′s LCD screen sports a super-bright "Sunny Weather" mode. It loses some highlights, but makes the viewfinder remarkably usable in direct sunlight. Shot in direct afternoon sunlight, the sequence above gives you some idea of the effect.

“I don’t think” – hehehe I’ll agree with that. My utility company provides 3rd world electricity in August. Most days the juice drops to 103 without anything on in the house. I’d love to have as much as 110. Fortunately, the L1 car charger works down to 100, and the L2 stuff works at 187 – the lowest I’ve measured. 5 big reasons why the juice is so bad, but then I’m not paying for the loss, so its not a biggie with me. Just worry a bit about the refrig and freezer.

Gasoline-powered portable generators, which cost from about $400 to $1,500, based on their output and features, are not only readily available at home-improvement stores, they’re easy to use. “If you can operate a lawn mower, you can operate a generator,” says Art Aiello, spokesman for Generac, one of the largest manufacturers of portable generators. “In winter, it doesn’t take a lot of snow or ice to bring down a power line in certain neighborhoods. If you have the ability to pull it out, add fuel and attach extension cords, a portable is a sound solution.”

I can’t speak for the Model 3 since I don’t know anyone who owns one yet, and Tesla has removed charging rates at 110 volts from their distance calculator.

However, there’s a reason we use 12V and 24V heated beds – they give us, at the very least, the illusion of safety. Therefore, [Makertum] is looking for a few comments from specialists and people who know what they’re doing.

Knowing the sequence of operation for this type of starting relay can help you diagnose, confirm, or rule out certain service problems.

It takes volts to push amps, and if your body tripped a 1A breaker you’d be dead. For shock hazard, 110V is safer than 220V regardless of the size of the circuit breaker. But for a given power draw the possibility of overheating your wiring is lower with 220V, which is why I use it in my (American) shop whenever my equipment supports it.

I don’t approve of that design. It lacks the third relay, which means that if you plug into two circuits on the same phase, you get 0 volts between the two hots, but both are still 120 volts away from ground. That means that the equipment doesn’t work, but it’s not safe to poke at. I prefer to insure that the 240 volt outlet is guaranteed to either be completely dead, or properly powered.

Speaking of mains power and gas pipes, I live in a 100-year-old house which has some rather dubious wiring (though, perhaps not as bad as the knob-and-tube it started with). The kitchen’s gas range had been in place since puke green was the preferred color, and its power cord (for the clock & timer) was, unbeknownst to me, seriously frayed. The range’s gas inlet was connected to the shutoff valve on the wall with one of those scary-looking flexible tubes (not a modern, yellow insulated one, but rather bare metal). Well, one day the range got pushed back for cleaning, and the exposed hot lead in its power cord brushed that gas line. ZAP!, followed by a roaring jet of flame from the large hole now in the flimsy gas line. I couldn’t get close enough to the shutoff valve to use it, so I had the frantically seek out a big wrench and shut off the gas where it enters the house in the basement. By then the wall behind the range was well and truly aflame (way too big for my wimpy little fire extinguisher to deal with), so I threw pans of water on the fire. I figured the breaker for the outlet the range was plugged into had already tripped, but it later turned out that the contact had been too brief for that and I was throwing water on a live electrical circuit–no harm came of that, fortunately.

I can’t think of any good reason for a toggle switch to get hot. If I ever found a hot toggle switch, I’d call that a fire hazard and recommend repair.

The Residual Current Circuit Breaker is a tad expensive, and is probably overkill for most hobbyists. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet, (GFCI), is cheaper to buy, cheaper to have installed, and a *knowledgeable* do-it-yourselfer can install his or her own. If you are knowledgeable about electrical wiring and codes, but don’t want to change an outlet in your house, you can buy a GFCI outlet and some regular outlets and make your own ground-fault-protected power bar, as a correctly wired GFCI outlet can protect additional regular (cheap) outlets as well. Alternatively, I’ve also seen GFCI units that plug in overtop of regular outlets and add protection to them.