Motor Nameplate Current vs. NEC Full Load Current Values | National Electrical Code | Lrd12 Overload Relay

You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.

It’s a Prius for private buyers. It’s got one of the best drivetrains and most sophisticated chassis in the class, looks ok inside and out, no doubt usual exemplary quality and reliability.

I’d like to know how this does around town and also on the highway (independently) when the battery is exhausted. Maybe we should get standard EPA measurements with the battery starting empty in addition to the eMPG test.

I suppose I would’ve used small contactors with auxiliary contacts as interlocking instead through some sort of arrangement, but that’s only because I have a pile of them lying around (and you would just put the wires under terminals rather than QD’s) but as I said (and you reinforced) I trusted your QD’s, particularly at these…”small” levels of current.

http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=grounding/unformatted/GroundResistance&type=u&title=Ground%20Resistance%20-%20It%27s%20Not%20What%20You%20Think%20%2812-30-99%29

There is a huge difference between heater and electric motor when it comes to inrush current. But anyway haven’t seen 600A contactor for switching on 60A motor.

3-phase installations like industrial facilities and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.

I don’t know who all of you people are, but stop being ridiculous. This guy made an ESP8266-based TRIAC switch, and gave the design away for free. He has ample warnings on his web page about this project. I encourage anyone who wants to use this design to research the subject thoroughly to make sure they understand what they’re doing.

I don’t know where do you see low voltage traces close to mains voltage. Trace from R8 to the opto is 2.64. How far do you think it should be to meet your standards? Conformal coating is telling you anything?

Depends how far north you are – direct sunlight isn’t required for them to produce useful heat. If you’ve got a months long night then they’re no use though.

I’ve not tried to account for phase differences (that is, power factor). It’s very naive. I measure the current via a CT and compute RMS across a whole cycle, then I find the peak voltage and do the math.

Power Supply Plan 24 Volts 300Watt heatpad or higher : Saferhttps://hackaday.io/project/8680-power-supply-plan-24-volts-300watt-heatpad