Agree on stupidity, but psychopaths have gotten an undeservedly-bad rap. See this: http://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/tv/firstclass/201604140600/ I’m proud to say that I scored 19 (average-level psychopath) on the the quiz that was presented.
But this time, as I tested the 2018 Kia Niro PHEV, everything went right. I was able to drive and charge this plug-in hybrid like a normal person who has to keep it for more than a week. Full charges greeted me each morning. And, at the end of my test, some seriously impressive fuel economy blew my mind.
Sorry.. gotta disagree here. I’m sure L1 charging can work for some people who don’t drive very much. But people who buy an EV thinking they are going to be able to do everything using the 120V EVSE are going to wind up ver dissatisfied with their EV owning experience. When you get buy a 240V unit from clipper creek for $300 these days, plus maybe a few hundred for electrical work, there is really no excuse not to get this done in most cases.
I worked in telephony for many years, and the ring voltage can be as high as 180 bolts at various frequencies, but, rather low current. In really old telco systems it may also be a square wave.
For transient rise times of 0.1 to 0.2 μs, twice the unit value of surge capability is required on stator windings. When rise times reach 1.2 μs or greater, 4.5 times the unit value is stipulated. In the case of external transients such as lightning, this would equate to a surge voltage capability of 918 VPEAK for a 230-V motor (full load current = 12 A) on a 250-V high-line condition. (Lightning surges can exceed these values, so stator windings would also need a suppression element for protection.)
True, but I have never seen a product use them. They will probably become popular with wifi powered stuff.
On our case a combo was the right solution. We use a contactor (a relay) to switch incoming power because it’s either on or off. But we use a SSR to switch elements on and off because they cycle on/off many times a minute.
Might be safer your way, since you’re transforming down, then back up again. Using a microwave oven transformer means horribly high voltages in the middle of the thing, and should, by chance, some insulation fail, or a bit of an arc, or whatever…
Yes, unfortunately, in my house the car isn’t in the basement. I work cheaper than most electricians, but nowadays they hardly do anything for $300. My Neighbor across the street paid for a 1/3 hp 110 volt outlet for his pool mandated by the town to be installed by a licensed electrician in this town, and it cost him $1400 for a simple direct buried UF 14-2 cable and a faceless ground fault on a dedicated 15 ampere circuit. That was more than the pool and filter. It would have been $1500 but he saved $100 by digging the trench himself..
I suppose it’d be a case by case thing. But I wouldn’t want to give an insurance company another excuse not to pay out.
Also, when you say “..10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts…” also does not seem to be correct: P=R*I^2, so @10A it’s 10W
As with basically every other high-end Android phone this year, the Mi Mix 3 has a Snapdragon 845 processor, but breaks new memory grounds by including up to 10GB of RAM. Xiaomi is also bundling the phone with a 10W wireless charger. A 5G version is set for release in Europe early next year.
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