No high school diploma? You’ve got options! | 19mm Momentary Push Button

If I scan a ceiling and I find a cold spot that doesn’t make any sense, I dig into it. Maybe it’s a plumbing leak from above, or maybe it’s just a cold water line that’s touching the ceiling. That’s where a moisture meter comes in handy. Ok, I’m getting sidetracked. Let’s discuss some electrical examples.

I think that’s technically just thin graphite. Graphene is 1 molecule thick sheets. People were gobsmacked when they discovered you could make it with sellotape.

A better choice is to spend a few hundred dollars to have an electrician install a dedicated 240-volt circuit – like those used for an electric clothes dryer – to take advantage of what’s called Level 2 charging. This can replenish a depleted battery in around four hours. You’ll also need to purchase an external Level 2 charging unit, which is also called the electric vehicle service equipment (EVSE).

There are people that play with high voltage stuff like Tesla coils, induction heaters etc. Now those know enough to respect high voltage.

Reading the related article will help you to not jump with such conclusions. It is stated very clear, to BE USED WITH FUSE!. Is no fuse on the board because the FUSEs module is separate from the command board. Just some common sense modular desing.

You’ll notice that there’s a single general lighting circuit that’s warmer than the other breakers in this panel; again, it’s only a small increase in temperature, so I’m not concerned. If it were much warmer, I might question why.

The QD terminals are totally fine as long as you have a ratchet crimper, which I saw you said that you did.

Reading at least the related article and a datasheet before making comments about something is quite a heavy task to ask this days…

I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.

I found the Sony A33 and A55′s AF tracking to be very fast and pretty accurate; almost too fast in some cases: If I let the central AF point wander off the subject for a fraction of a second, focus would quickly shift to the background. Many of the missed-focus shots I took were the result of this problem, versus the camera not being able to track focus quickly enough. Some high-end DSLRs have settings in their autofocus systems to adjust how quickly they respond to momentary loss of the subject. (Either from the AF point drifting off the subject, or for some interfering object passing between the subject and camera.) If Sony were able to add this capability to the A33/55, it could go a long way to reducing the number of missed shots, at least based on my experience.

Finally, only consider charging units that have been tested and certified for safety by an independent source like Underwriters Laboratory (UL). And if you’re having a charger installed outdoors, make sure it’s rated for that purpose.

Point taken. Perhaps it’s time to change of the the mindset, of the at large DIY community to when treated with properly 120/240 VAC can be used safely, as it’s being used day in and say out. I recall a project of Limor Fried made a project more as need be be becase she appered to be overly frearful of line voltage, then again she was taking into consideration the carelessness in the hacker community. One the flip side I personally know electrical engineers with decade in the filed who flippantly say 120 VAC can’t kill you. I know enough to know they are being full of shit In the end because of irritation fear useful resource is being ignored. Then again I have history of being comfortable with working on motor controls with neatly 800 VAC feeding them or working with electronic devices that have more than 30,0000 volts inside the cabinet. Lower voltages bring greater safy to life burt rquire higher current to do the amount of work, potetiall a fire hazrds id something goes wrong.