No high school diploma? You’ve got options! | 220v Contactor Relay

Oh, and if you want a car charging hack, there’s always the Hydra: http://hackaday.io/project/3939-j1772-hydra

Then again, like other counterfeit assemblies…. they might rely on the installer using a 25A relay for a 15A load which is why they put a counterfeit 16A triac inside which the manufacturer actually put a die of a 12A because he knows his user will de-rate the max current anyway.

No, it’s far more likely a combination of the strength of your flexor muscles (biceps) being stronger than your extensors (triceps), a bit of spinal reflex (sudden stretch of pain signal = withdraw limb) and observer bias; you’ve probably seen people electrocuted with 120v AC more often than 120v DC.

Nissan has said that most people who get their LEAF charging stations installed by AeroVironment will pay around $2,200 to $2,500 in hardware, permits and labor—$750 of which is for the actual charge station hardware. While the pictures are interesting in-and-of-themselves for those of us that care about what happens under the hood of all of our equipment, the bigger question the pictures bring up is what, exactly, you’re paying for when you plunk down your $750 for the hardware.

Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.

The back-EMF voltage generated across the start winding causes a small current to flow in the start winding and potential relay coil, because they are in the same circuit. When the back-EMF has built up to a high enough value (referred to as pick-up voltage), the contacts between terminals 1 and 2 will be picked up (“opened”). This will take the start capacitor out of the circuit.

When the cycling control opens, line voltage is taken away from the motor. The motor’s rotor decreases in speed. Thus, the back-EMF generated across the start winding decreases in magnitude. The relay’s coil now sees a lower back-EMF and no longer can generate enough magnetism in its iron core to keep contacts 1 and 2 open.

Probably doesn’t completely answer your question, but you might like to watch this for more info about RCD/RCBOs and how they operate. It contains some very entertaining explosions. }:~)

Best answer: Probably. The Amazon Smart Plug was designed to work with most any product you have in your home but there are some exceptions and devices that shouldn’t be connected.

We recently had a chat among the Hackaday writers about how we could approach this subject. The easy way out is to be all Elf-and-Safety and join the radioactive anthrax crowd. But the conclusion we came to was that this site is a resource for hackers and makers. Some of you are going to lift the lid on boxes containing significant voltages no matter what, so we thought we’d help you do it safely rather than just listen for the distant screams.

A big oversight is that outlets are frequently wired backwards with the live and neutral switched. The outlets could be tested first but that kind of defeats the purpose of this thing. Also most houses will have all the outlets in one room be on one branch.

I can’t remember the exact numbers, but before the change, UK mains voltage was acceptable between something like 210V and 270V, depending on grid load. EU mains had a similar range. All they did, was tighten up the range. So now it’s nominally 230V, with 240V being within acceptable range. Which is good because the voltage stayed exactly the same. They just trimmed the range at the top end to be within the EU standards.