No high school diploma? You’ve got options! | Circuit Breaker Parts

Anything below 50 Volts is considered “safe”. As in, you don’t need to be a licensed electrician to build and operate it. That’s the other thing with dealing with mains voltages in a DIY project. If you build it yourself, your insurance company won’t covery you.

It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).

So you have to put new wire to have proper L1 anyway, you might as well put one that will serve properly 7times faster.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I hereby nominate [cyberteque] as the replacement for our recently departed “most interesting man in the world”. Assuming he was, in fact, nearly eaten alive by a feral pig, or trapped under a hang glider under water. Double votes if he was nearly eaten alive by a feral pig who was flying a hang glider upside-down under the water.

A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?

The first time I hooked up to HT it was a 32+ inch screen (about 27KV) and it launched me into the air and I landed 4 meters behind where I was sitting. The second time was a 27 inch (about 24KV) and there was a wall about two meters behind me and I was slammed into that so hard that I was bruised in many places.

I don’t specialize in installing dishwashers or washing machines, so please don’t call me about them. You’re better off finding a plumber.

I find it fascinating how the difference has also impacted the very different “styles” of electrical standards, construction, equipment, etc…the US has had to worry about thermal issues in different ways because of the lower voltage, but that also extended to higher voltage equipment as well, and an overall concern regarding fire (particularly in non-residential installations) when at the same time, we had a lot more natural resources piled around so in the US, we focus heavily on metallic enclosure and grounding (and the fact that our neutrals are meaningful when most Euro outlets are non-polar). At the same time, engineers were far more plentiful (and far less expensive) in postwar Europe than in the US, and the electrician:engineer ratio was very different. Likewise, that’s why NEMA and IEC in many ways are so different (NEMA is overbuilt, maintainable, easily specified but expensive and not particularly precise in application, meant for an electrician to be able to come up with the right contactor, etc.) whereas IEC stuff is more resource- and space-efficient but requires specification. Double-insulation is instead the focus in Europe, which doesn’t need any more metal to accomplish.

But at the end of the training it says “you can ignore all of this if you are troubleshooting”. If you are afraid of live circuits, stay at your desk where it is safe…

I was mainly thinking about the diff between high vs. low RMS AC voltage but the discussion of AC vs DC has been interesting as well.

It’s also worth noting that some of the quibbles, such as wind noise and the slightly fidgety ride, are still being worked on. What appears to be a good car could yet get even better.

That said, 12A @ 240V is only a little less than the most our Volt will use even on a proper charger, so it’s still a good thing.