1. He mentioned grease – higher current SSRs are sweat soldered to the base plate, they don’t use thermal grease.
Well your musle will clench with AC as well. That’s why friend mine is still among the living. He was an oilfield pumper after n over night thunderstorm there was much equip down because of blown fuses and tripped motor over load protection devices my fried got an a hurry and got careless He reached int a motor control box and grab a fuse in each hand to pull them out. Because of other damage in the box they where energized. The jolt threw him on his ass because his hands clenched surround the fuses the act of throwing him back disconnect him from the electric power as the fuses pulled out out of their holders. I tech school one of the other student got bit by HV inside a TV and it threw his hand way. He wasn’t hurt by the electrical shock, but we kept an an eye him for a while because he looked like he could enter a state of physical shock.
So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.
My Tesla Model 3 came a week ago, Thursday, and I traded in my Volt. So, I swapped out the NEMA L6-20, for an Eaton box with NEMA 14-50 receptacle, 8ft of 6-4 wire, and a 50 amp double-pole breaker. About $75 at Lowes. Yes, the Tesla came with a L2 EVSE that charges at 32 amps. You could buy the Tesla HPWC for $350, I think, but it’s totally not necessary for most.
I get called in all the time for problems with space heaters. If you leave the house while the heater is running, the connection could get loose and burn up the plug, which could start a fire. Give your space heater the space it needs, and turn it off when you aren’t using it. Learn more about how to use a space heater safely.
Reviewed by Dave Etchells, Mike Tomkins, Shawn Barnett, and Zig Weidelich Preview Posted: 08/24/2010Updated to Full Review: 10/29/2010
idk, anytime I’ve been shocked on the job I tend to immediately pull back – usually any screwdriver I have in my hands goes flying, and hopefully its not towards me or anyone else’s face. Which is why I use all 1000v insulated screwdrivers now. Better sorry than safe, kill two stones with one bird. You can definitely “feel” the alternating current.
The back-EMF voltage generated across the start winding causes a small current to flow in the start winding and potential relay coil, because they are in the same circuit. When the back-EMF has built up to a high enough value (referred to as pick-up voltage), the contacts between terminals 1 and 2 will be picked up (“opened”). This will take the start capacitor out of the circuit.
I can’t speak for the ‘3’, but you can – since you can at least compare your cost of charging with the 240 – 250 volt cost in the Tesla Calculator.
I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.
If you had a mains-voltage shock once and got away with it, you were lucky, that doesn’t mean the voltage is safe, you were merely playing a game of Russian Roulette with Ohm’s Law and a low impedance high voltage supply. Your domestic mains can dump the hefty amounts of current your home heating, your cooker, or your electric kettle demands, so if it finds a low resistance path through you then it is going have no problems dumping whatever current Ohm’s Law allows it to through that path. The chances are if it happens to you the path will be a high enough resistance that you’ll only get a very nasty jolt and live to tell the tale, but if it’s not your lucky day the resistance will be low enough that you’re just going to sit on the end of it twitching until the power is turned off, whether you’re alive or not. That’s the gruesome truth. Mess with this stuff and you can die, end of story. You are responsible for keeping yourself safe, and this is not a joke. OK? Now to work!
And the MOC3041 can not handle a 1 amp load, “Peak repetitive surge current” is what it can handle for 0.0001 seconds at every 60Hz cycle before getting (possibly) damaged. The continuous load limit is far less than 1 amp.
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