I think in the long-term this shameful scam-fest won’t last. Because stuff will keep bursting into flames all around us, for one thing. But hopefully people will realise that Ebay’s “rating” nonsense is only valuable if the people who give the ratings actually know what they’re talking about. The whole point of counterfeit stuff is you mislead the customer so they don’t.
It’s not all a bed of roses with video and live AF on the Sony A33, though. While it tracks action very well, focus actuation with the kit lens is far from silent: In anything but a very loud environment, the "chock… chock" of the lens’ focus operation is painfully apparent in the audio track. Even with the ultrasonic motor-equipped Sony 70-200mm f/2.8G lens attached, focus noise was quite audible in quiet environments. Another really annoying (and entirely avoidable) audio artifact is the loud click that’s recorded at the very end of each video clip; the sound of your pressing the video on/off button to stop the recording. I experienced this with the NEX-5 as well, and it honestly seems like a bug to me.
So if I am looking to make the magnet more powerful, other than supplying more current, could I wire the primary and secondary coils of the microwave transformer together in series to get more turns (being mindful to keep the direction the current flows the same in both coils)? My thoughts are that it would increase the resistance a bit from the added wire but that the magnet would have a lot more turns. Am I missing something or am I onto something? Thanks in advance!
253V above. The 3% voltage reduction equalled 5% of the load and 6% voltage reduction 10% of the load I seem to remember. Over 15 years ago.
When I was doing rehab work on old Chicago apartments I would often find electric wires run through abandoned gas lighting pipes, ready made conduit going to where the old gas light fixtures were, not exactly code and very confusing, especially since there were “live” gas pipes mixed up in the walls and ceilings with the ones carrying Mr. 120!
Of course a safe mains powered heater is possible, but you need a double insulated cable (which is stiffer and heavier) and a reliable strain relief for it. You have to permanently bond the heater PCB to the glass print bed with silicone. You need a fuse and a thermal cut out (thermal fuse) for fire safety, because the available power in the mains circuit is much higher.
Can you create, and how safe it would be, isolation transformer with two transformers? so, secondary of first transformer connected to secondary of second (2:11:2) ? In my naive thinking head, it should work. i have few microwave transformers with modified secondary (about 20-30V output from 220V input), and was thinking of using two of them…
There are lots of big name professional meters that share the same ports for both. My Klein shares them.
All of this, if you suppose that you are taking a full hand of cable. Got shocked a few times with AC (and DC as well) and since I was just thouching, not handling, I had no trouble to get away with it (just swearing A LOT and throwing my screwdriver through the room).
So it’s – what happens to this board at 110 Volts and what are the consequences and the same for 240V, 1000V 10000V, ALL of these voltages. So it’s about what voltage will cause consequences and NOT what it is going to do at a specific assumed voltage, or more to the point ** where are the first points of failure with increasing voltage and what are the consequences.
I had a job testing these once, and I can confirm that standard failure mode for overcurrent is some kind of explosion. Usually it was a puff of flame and dust down the leg, but occasionally we’d get a TO220 blown in half
I have plenty of stuff in my garage, including plenty of filled gas cans, but I have nothing within 18″ of the floor. Even the hot-tub boiler is elevated, which is why you see gas water heaters in garages elevated by concrete blocks.
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