Yes, unfortunately, in my house the car isn’t in the basement. I work cheaper than most electricians, but nowadays they hardly do anything for $300. My Neighbor across the street paid for a 1/3 hp 110 volt outlet for his pool mandated by the town to be installed by a licensed electrician in this town, and it cost him $1400 for a simple direct buried UF 14-2 cable and a faceless ground fault on a dedicated 15 ampere circuit. That was more than the pool and filter. It would have been $1500 but he saved $100 by digging the trench himself..
220 volt +/- 10% isn’t really a good design standard. As it doesn’t live up to the requirements within the EU to start with.
The few I bought on AliExpress all had 50% rated triacs in them vs. description. “Luckily” I contested them all for 50% my money back and could use them for lower power projects later
You’ll notice that there’s a single general lighting circuit that’s warmer than the other breakers in this panel; again, it’s only a small increase in temperature, so I’m not concerned. If it were much warmer, I might question why.
They call those death sticks in the electrical trade. Those are just the first step in making sure it’s safe.
About 20yr ago I changed the big noisy (*) contactor for the 400V/3 phase 1kW pool pump to a 4 pole relay similar to this one: https://www.reichelt.at/Industrierelais/FIN-55-34-8-230V/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=13324&GROUPID=7622&artnr=FIN+55.34.8+230V&trstct=pol_4 because of the noise it made. It makes small sparks at the contacts, but is switching every day in summer since 20yrs. If there is no cleaning work to do, the pump is only switched one cycle per day by a timer. So, maybe 2000 or 3000 switching cycles is not much for a relay, but it is sufficient. And even if it would burn out now, it had a 20yr lifetime. *) the loud “clonk” when it pulled in and sometimes humming from the coil. That disturbed my father sleeping in a near room. We do not need remote control, it just has to work.
I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.
When the cycling control opens, line voltage is taken away from the motor. The motor’s rotor decreases in speed. Thus, the back-EMF generated across the start winding decreases in magnitude. The relay’s coil now sees a lower back-EMF and no longer can generate enough magnetism in its iron core to keep contacts 1 and 2 open.
You need to factor in the kWh you used within the week (along with the cost per kWh). This will give people a better idea of actual cost to power this vehicle 253 miles.
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Evil picture, don’t coil your cord tightly around the EVSE, it should hang loosely to dissipate heat
It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).
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