Nvidia unveils Turing architecture and GPUs with dedicated ray-tracing hardware | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

people remember “the good old days” and they forget all about the horrible accidents and fires and massive death that came from ignoring fire regulations

There are numerous safe ways to do this, without reinventing the wheel. Like so: http://www.omega.com/pptst/HCS_HEATER.html (Need 240 mains? Hook two in series.) Precision control circuit can be found in the Data sheet for LM34 temp sensor. Uses an LM10 combo op-amp/ref to switch a solid state relay. Doc

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.

Lenovo is promising 30 percent better performance over its previous Miix 630 Windows on ARM device, and a surprising claim of 25 hours of battery life to match. While the battery life sounds impressive, it’s the performance that will matter in a device like this and we’ll need to test this latest range of ARM-powered laptops to see if app compatibility and performance has improved. Most Windows desktop apps will run emulated on these ARM-powered devices, but there are some limitations. As this is powered by the Snapdragon 850, there’s also built-in LTE support for mobile connectivity on the go.

You like many others here can wallow in their own baseless opinions, meanwhile millions including myself very safely charge up using 120 volts almost every night. I usually use a higher voltage for the BOLT, but the ELR mostly just charges on 120 the same as most VOLTS.

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

I adore the Gravity Blue finish on this tester — it’s a welcome change from the sea of grey, silver, and white that fills every damned parking lot. More blue/green here again.

I had a job testing these once, and I can confirm that standard failure mode for overcurrent is some kind of explosion. Usually it was a puff of flame and dust down the leg, but occasionally we’d get a TO220 blown in half

Before the code prohibited it, it was common practice to share neutrals between circuits. It was customary to pull three hot conductors – fed from three different phases on a three-phase system – a neutral and a ground into a single conduit in commercial facilities. The assumption was that the neutral carried only the unbalance between the three phases, and that would never exceed the highest current in a phase conductor. Now, you can’t do that anymore, unless you use a three-pole circuit breaker, handle ties, or a three pole disconnect switch.

Generally, most LED power supplies are a constant-current type, and are often referred to as LED drivers. These can be purchased as off-the-shelf assemblies containing MOVs to meet lower-level surge requirements.

Yeah, I screwed up this one. I was looking for the ON State voltage drop, but they were giving the power, which I multiplied by the current giving the wrong value above.http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdf this shows about 3-6W @ 5A. I was trying to compare both relay and triac at 5A, significantly below their rated max load. It looks like the affirmation still stands, the triac will dissipate more, but now the number is not even double.

If you really have to work on a live circuit, electrically isolate yourself and try to work with only one hand. Put the other one in your pocket. That way the risk of closing a circuit through your body is much smaller. Also don’t work in a hurry, carefully plan your actions and slowly do them. Use nonflammable clothes. Use electrically protective gloves. Use face protection.