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PCB coatings seal off remaining PCB contaminations and go some way to reducing the presence of future contaminations that may promote water condensation. That is all PCB coatings do! There is no point coating over solder connections as these may be re-soldered in service. Even a coated PCB will have condensing water at very high humidities and favourable temperature differences.

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

Coastal BC might be viable for them, here in the “temperate” bit of Ontario they’d be good in April and October.

Being in the controller business I’ve been presented more than one friend’s design with insufficient cooling. One friend even mounted his SSR to a decent heat sink then mounted the entire assembly inside his housing with no air circulation. His response was “it will work” and he’s had two SSRs fail that I know of. At least in his case, the steel housing kept the “magic smoke” contained!

Of course, after buying a 1000W PSU, I kept getting intermittent shutdowns and freezes after 30-60 minutes of gameplay or CAD work, despite remaining perfectly stable while mining for days at a time. The GTX670 has no backplate and last year a fan screw vibrated loose and fell on top of it while everything was running. The motherboard was toast so I ungraded it and the CPU (AMD FX9590), but the GTX670 itself seemed okay. Apparently not.

If you’re invested in the Alexa ecosystem, the Amazon Smart Plug is super reliable, dead simple to set up, and works with most electrical products you would find in the home. Be sure to heed the warnings found in the in-box manual!

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15A is more like 1,500 times what’s required to kill you, depending on what part of your anatomy it finds to traverse.

The only thing I would add would be a (redundant) circuit breaker (Airpax, Heinemann, et al) on each input that was two-pole with a common trip bar. That, and I would build it in a metal enclosure.

There is a ton of great information online about almost every air conditioner available. You can find troubleshooting tips on manufacturer websites as well as message boards and blogs.

Point is, there are already pretty well established and widely accepted methods for uniform heating. Why re-invent the wheel AND sacrifice safety?

Historically, there were two post-war electric utilities, and one contracted with GE for equipment, and the other contracted with Siemens – thus the two wound up with different frequencies.