Solar charging becomes more cost effective, however, if you’re tapping into a full-house power system. Sources suggest a properly sized whole-house solar system can pay for itself in around seven years, depending on the size of the installation, local labor rates, component costs, and other variables. The national average for a 6-kW home solar power system is reportedly close to $19,000. Fortunately there’s a 30 percent federal tax credit with no limit available to help offset the costs. Unfortunately, the solar-power credit is scheduled to drop to 26 percent in 2020, 22 percent in 2021, and will be discontinued altogether in 2022.
I think Brian’s point was that if the bond between the earth ground and the neutral return of the incoming premises power isn’t good enough, then the short to earth might *not* trip the breaker. Of course, it would likely start a fire instead (the resistance may not be zero, but it will be low enough to sink a great deal of power in most cases and a 15A breaker will tolerate a couple THOUSAND watts), but I think that if you can’t trust that the building is to code, then all bets are off.
People are so fixated by the calculation of amount of liquid per mile, they can’t–and won’t–figure it out on the basis of how much money it costs to drive each mile.
Ah, sō desu ka… Time to get some more iron in my diet, if I’m going to continue this dangerous hobby.
To be exact: It’s the anode or acceleration voltage. Focus is usually some kV, but derived from a 100Meg voltage divider.
Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.
This Kia Niro’s cargo area, in contrast, looks very nice! Interesting. Kia’s brand equity isn’t strongly convincing as a sound long-term value-driven purchase. I haven’t driven one, but it sounds like it isn’t great to drive.
It’s not all a bed of roses with video and live AF on the Sony A33, though. While it tracks action very well, focus actuation with the kit lens is far from silent: In anything but a very loud environment, the "chock… chock" of the lens’ focus operation is painfully apparent in the audio track. Even with the ultrasonic motor-equipped Sony 70-200mm f/2.8G lens attached, focus noise was quite audible in quiet environments. Another really annoying (and entirely avoidable) audio artifact is the loud click that’s recorded at the very end of each video clip; the sound of your pressing the video on/off button to stop the recording. I experienced this with the NEX-5 as well, and it honestly seems like a bug to me.
Yeah, dont use these. Use a relay instead. There is a reason all the high end stuff went away from the Triacs as they will float to full mains voltage when no load is connected and you get electrocuted when you mess with the circuit. AMX, Crestron, Lutron, etc all have moved away from pure Triac control due to this safety issue.
Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.
https://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/
Even if you have 20A circuit breakers, 15A is going to likely be the circuit limit because most heavy-duty extension cords you can get are only rated for 15A – which, again, means charging at 12A.
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