Keep in mind that for a circuit to have a rating above 60°C (140°F), the wire as well as the breaker, disconnect lugs, and connection lugs in the equipment must all be rated at a temperature at or above the temperature rating being used. If any portion of the circuit utilizes non-metallic (NM) cabling — often known by the trade name Romex® — it must be rated at 60°C (140°F) according to article 334.80 of the NEC.
My post outlines the PME system. There are older systems that do run an earth / ground but they are being removed as and when they need attention. The US system is different but the number of countries using the US system is much less than the number of countries that use a similar system to the UK. I am UK based and UK trained.
The standard phrase in our repair shop was “electroplated’… as in …”I took that old CRT out and whoosh…. I damn near electroplated myself into the middle of next week when I touched the bottom of the LOPT”…. electrocution was reserved for politicians… as in “….how the hell could there possibly be enough numpties in this country to electorcute that old hag Thatcher…”
My friend died of electrocution while on the job. Our mains voltage here is 240V (single phase) or 415V (three phase) and not very forgiving.
Tell that to the parents buying baby formula adulterated with melamine. The Chinese have long standing traditions that support cutting as many corners as possible. Basically, cheat until caught. And their government seems to actively turn a blind eye to all manner of this nonsense.
That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.
>Basically, cheat until caught. I’m a high schooler in America, and my “fellow peers” pull the same bullshit- and then when they get caught, they get mad at the teachers. >And their government seems to actively turn a blind eye to all manner of this nonsense. Aaand so do peers at my school.
You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.
Snap! Didn’t even get the first instrument lit. I began to investigate. Wiring size, check. Dimmer output side breaker, still on. Go further down the line and find that the electrician had indeed taken care of it. He re-did my calculations, which at full nominal load looked like a 15 amp breaker on the input side of the dimmer would work just fine. What they didn’t realize is that when you bring an instrument or instruments (depending on the circuit) to full on, you go beyond even 20 amps for just a moment, then it goes down to about 13 amps.
Where a conventional SLR has an optical viewfinder, the Sony A33/55 substitutes an electronic display with an eyepiece attached. (An electronic viewfinder, or EVF for short.) The image for the EVF is taken from the main image sensor, so the camera is essentially always in "Live View" mode. Mechanically, the eyepiece projects out from the back of the camera a fair bit, to leave room for the camera’s autofocus system in front of the EVFs micro display and viewfinder optics. I found I actually liked this rear projection, as it left a bit more room for my nose when I held the camera to my eye. Happily, the neckstrap eyelets are arranged such that the camera hangs lens-down when on a neck strap, so I had no trouble with the projecting eyepiece poking me in the chest.
Overall though, you’re just talking about increased RMS voltage allowing more current; the more current the more burn, heart arrhythmia and neuromuscular effects.
The problem is that the triac may dissipate more than 15W when using it at 10A, which requires a good heatsink and ventilation. That’s a lot of overkill if you just want to control a 6W LED lamp.
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