We’ve seen very few car charging hacks. If you know of one, or have been working on your own, let us know!
厦门仲鑫达自动化设备有限公司是一家长年专业从事全球知名品牌ABB DSQC机器人系统模块备件及西门子摩尔（Siemens Moore APACS）控制系统零部件销售企业、我们售出的备品备件均提供一年的质量保证、并且都经过了严格的测试和认证。
That depends on the country. I live in Europe, and people here are allowed to do basic repairs and modification with mains voltage, like adding extra outlets. All the materials such as PVC conduits, wires, outlets, lights, switches and dimmers are readily available in the hardware store. It is however not allowed to mess with anything before the meter or fuses. Some equipment like electric stoves don’t come with power cords. Instead, you open up some compartment, and attach the wires on some screw terminals.
That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.
It turns out that the live viewfinder image doesn’t cover the full screen in 3:2 aspect mode, but is normally confined to roughly the central 80% of the available display area. When you switch to the Fn menu display, though, you need to press your eye pretty close to the viewfinder eyepiece to be able to see the menu items on the left and right sides of the screen. I found that with my eyeglasses on, I had to shift my eye to the left or the right to see the menu entries on the sides, or else really mash my eyeglasses against the eyecup. Switching to 16:9 aspect ratio expands the image to fill the left and right of the EVF’s LCD as well, which is also problematic for eyeglass wearers.
The device uses a triac to do the switching, and is optically isolated from mains. Be sure to check out the video after the break to see the device in action. All in all, this could be a great way to get started with home automation, or maybe just do something simple like build a timer for your floor lamp. Anything is possible!
I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.
Also I have seen opto-couples where the pins have been spayed out to gain an extra 0.1″ between the rows of pins.
As far as litigation goes? I know enough about Chinese law to know that it’s really up to Fotek and whether Fotek applied for trademarks in China or not, and whether they did the rest of the intellectual property legwork in China (which is really tricky because China doesn’t use common law like Western countries do, so it’s a harder system to navigate). If they did, then yea, the counterfeiters could probably be sued although it’s a whack-a-mole game, the counterfeiters come up faster than they can be whacked down. But if Fotek didn’t go through the China IP process to protect their brand, then the counterfeiters may have actually applied for the trademark themselves in China, gotten the right to use the name, took the likeness and everything, legally (at least in China). Best Fotek could do at that point is try to keep them from being imported into the USA (similar to the Sparkfun fluke-colored DMM’s a few years back) but again that’s a whack-a-mole game that they wouldn’t win.
Overall, there’s little question that the Sony A33 has the best video AF of any interchangeable-lens camera currently on the market, but if you plan on doing much video recording, I’d suggest you also plan on buying an accessory external microphone to record the audio.
The QD terminals I buy are not the crappy ones you get at Home Depot. I buy 10 gauge Molex AviKrimp ones from DigiKey. They’re ~33 cents each at Q:250. They are no joke. I use them in the high current path of OpenEVSEs that I build for up to 24A, and they perform perfectly.
If you’re invested in the Alexa ecosystem, the Amazon Smart Plug is super reliable, dead simple to set up, and works with most electrical products you would find in the home. Be sure to heed the warnings found in the in-box manual!
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