They call those death sticks in the electrical trade. Those are just the first step in making sure it’s safe.
Take a look at the Lennox air conditioning condensing unit tag on Page 19. Notice that the MCA is 28.6 amps and the maximum fuse or circuit breaker is 50 amps. This means it is allowable to install this unit on a circuit breaker rated at 50 amps and a conductor rated at 28.6 amps, according to the NEC’s NFPA 70.
A big oversight is that outlets are frequently wired backwards with the live and neutral switched. The outlets could be tested first but that kind of defeats the purpose of this thing. Also most houses will have all the outlets in one room be on one branch.
The 40 Gallon Hot water tank takes 22 Amps with both element on. And you used a 25 Amp relay. What really happened is you under rated your relay. Solid state or Mechanical does not matter. At the Max for a load it should never use more then 80% of your ratted load of your switch/relay/controller.
On my printer I closed the sides, took the heated bed off and fitted a relay on the driving wires connected to a travel (230 volt AC) hair dryer screwed to the back. ABS prints like PLA now, no warping or other problems other than the normal ABS shrinkage factor.
All silly, make graphene in a blender combine it with acrylic paint, then paint it on. Making heated beds is anything but an art form. Or just use graphite.
In San Diego (where I live) residential electricty rates start at 15 cents per kWh. Lower electric rates are available if you charge the car at night, but you have to agree to pay a crazy-high rate of 53 cents per kWh at other times. That wouldn’t work for me, but YMMV.
This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.
GM quickly realized this and changed the default to 8 A charging to prevent fires, and many others limit at 10 or 11 A.
That’s how you may get some serious, even life-threatening, internal RF burns without noticing anything.
The likely hazards identified, what are you about to do with it? Are you just opening it for curiosity’s sake, are you going to work on the high voltage circuit to fix it, or is it surplus that you’re scavenging for parts? If you’re just curious or simply scavenging parts, you may not have to increase the risk by applying power in the first place, so what other risks might remain?
On an MV distribution there is no neutral or ground wire, just the three phases with a delta / star transformer to make the LV.
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