Ohio will let businesses pay their taxes with Bitcoin | 220v Contactor Relay

Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.

The earth ground connection won’t prevent you from being shocked unless it’s a GFI outlet. The soil resistivity in most places in the US doesn’t cause enough current to flow to earth ground to trip a normal breaker. Bonded ground systems are better, but if the bond from neutral to earth ground is far away from the short it might still not trip a normal breaker.

Yes, unfortunately, in my house the car isn’t in the basement. I work cheaper than most electricians, but nowadays they hardly do anything for $300. My Neighbor across the street paid for a 1/3 hp 110 volt outlet for his pool mandated by the town to be installed by a licensed electrician in this town, and it cost him $1400 for a simple direct buried UF 14-2 cable and a faceless ground fault on a dedicated 15 ampere circuit. That was more than the pool and filter. It would have been $1500 but he saved $100 by digging the trench himself..

You neglected to mention the Geiger-Muller counter and the Anthrax detector. Nothing short of criminal negligence to work without either one.

Didn’t have to purchase any EVSE. My 2016 Volt came with one, that was L2 capable. You only needed to make a pigtail. It’s actually a Clipper Creek. So, for about $60, I installed a NEMA L6-20 outlet, with 20amp double-pole breaker, and 8 ft of 10-4 wire that I had left over. $20 got me a permit.

Though, how ever, even with a heat pump, one could lower the power bill a bit more if one takes the power when it is cheapest.

I have never understood why North America stayed in their stupid 120V system, that uses very high currents over inferior aluminium wires, connected with lose screwcaps and fuses that may explode out of the wall. And it would be probably federal crime and against the code to use proper copper wires connected with good push lock blocks and DIN rail mounted fuses and contactors…

And the MOC3041 can not handle a 1 amp load, “Peak repetitive surge current” is what it can handle for 0.0001 seconds at every 60Hz cycle before getting (possibly) damaged. The continuous load limit is far less than 1 amp.

You don’t need a 3D printer to use a heated print bed for 3D printing? I’d think that having the rest of the 3D printer would more or less be required to use a heated bed to facilitate printing.

1. A hot-neutral reversal will supply the 208/240V relay with 120V. It will make an angry buzzing noise but won’t close. Two hot-neutral reversals will supply it with 0 volts.

All of the wire in the high current path is 10 gauge wire that was cut from SOOW cable, so it is, indeed, rated for 600V. In addition, it has 105 degree insulation, which means that it’s actually good for more than 30A. But it’s largely moot since the NEMA 5-15 plugs would only ever be found on 20A circuits (and even then, they likely wouldn’t be dedicated).

LOL– I stepped into doo-doo deep enough to over top chest waders, I’m over six feet tall, so that’s deep doo-doo. First I was surprise to learn that the heated beds weren’t heated by line voltage, IMO that’s a no brainer. Appliances across the word use line voltage to produce heat with no shock hazard present when use properly. Getting back to the deep doo-doo. Hackaday does present instruction posts. Line voltage is useful resource that is avoided because of irrational fear. I’m calling irrational because the fear is due to ignorance. I suggest Hackaday create instructional post on how to use line voltage in a way that’s safe to life and doesn’t cause property damage when something goes wrong. Peer reviewed studies and guidelines information is preferred.