Upgrade the triac and redesign the PCB to be able to safely take a whole 2400W (Australian 240v 10A mains rating) of mains load.
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We drive about 30k miles/year, lots of long trips. After a trip, we usually pull in with 25-50 miles of range remaining. No problem – charging to the normal 80% is < 7 hours.
You are correct and if you design this type of solution you already know this. With PCB design, the alternatives are heavier copper, wider traces, plating up copper in the areas that carry heavy current or a combo of any of the three. But you can only go so far with these solutions. Hack apart a known good SSR and I bet they use the exact same solution.
China is a shithole. Business-wise it’s like the West was 300 years ago, when your “flour” was cut with chalk dust and all the rest. Except apparently in Chinese culture it’s seen as enterprising and showing initiative, to concoct little wheezes like this for a profit, rather than the thievery our own culture for some reason sees it as.
Seriously, it looks rather sparse inside, does it not? Perhaps some of you more electrically inclined/engineering types can chime in and let us know if $750 seems reasonable now that we know what’s inside?
In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.
At the risk of being labeled a pedant, I’ll remind you that Mike isn’t billed for power, he’s billed for energy, and you didn’t say how *long* you’d expect to draw 3 kW for free.
Mains powered heated glass plates are common place in catering, same deal as a car back window, the heating wires are on the other side from the “working surface” these things can tolerate touching and even fluid spills, why reinvent the wheel, the solution is already commercially avaliable.
Level 2 charging systems come in two basic varieties, plug-in portable and wall-mounted units that are hard-wired directly to a home’s electric service. If you don’t have a closed garage and you’ll be charging the vehicle outside, local codes may require a fixed-mount unit. Otherwise a portable charger requires no professional installation, assuming you’ve added the 240-volt service line. This type can come in handy if you own two homes or will be staying with friends or family in another town and want to take the unit along for charging at your destination.
Since GM was having troubles with said DOPES regarding the 2011 VOLT, they quickly redesigned the current and all future units to have an AWG #14 connector cord, while keeping the AWG #16 connector cord to the car – why? – so that the oversized connector cord would extract heat from any overheating defective receptacle.
Then when you step up a notch to the KV stage the safety rules change because air can now be a conductor.
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