Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.
The point is it can be done safely and cheaply and is proven to be safe; so we can’t work out why everyone was so dubious.
In my experience there are only TRIACs that are in perfect working order or TRIACs that have exploded.
The standard in UK is 230 V not 240 V, like the the rest of the EU. The continent was mainly using 220 V until 1986 and UK 240 V until 1986. The 230 VAC was choosen by the IEC as a compromise between the 220, 230 and 240 system. So actually main voltage in EU should be 230V +/-6% at distribution panel, and equipement should support 230V +/-10%. (voltage drop in the internal house distribution should be less than 4%) But a transition period of 20~25 years was used, during the transition period main voltage at distribution panel in UK should be in the 230 VAC +10%/-6% range, and in the rest of EU it should be in the 230 VAC +6%/-10% range. (Other 240 VAC country like Australia and NZ switch to 230 VAC at least officialy)
My first thought was that the terminals were over torqued rotating the blocks, stretching the pins, and tearing the pads.
The run and start capacitors provide the phase shift for starting torque because their capacitances add up when wired in parallel. In fact, both capacitors are wired in series with the start winding and in parallel with the run winding.
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Let us never forget this Darwinian hero. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfyyii_man-electrocuted-on-the-train-india_news
I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.
As someone who started playing with electronics in the days of B+ in the 350VDC range with double that across the main xformer’s secondary, I was utterly appalled at the idea of tying myself to a hard ground when working with some of the newer (for the time) solid-state stuff that was coming out. We had a respect for high voltage then that is often missing these days, this article is an excellent reminder that this is still needed.
But don’t believe brand names are any better, especially if you buy them from eBay or Amazon! There is too much profit to be made remarking parts to trust any of these type parts from anyone but a major distributor like DIGIKEY or MOUSER Electronics.
Youtube helpfully suggested this teardown of (apparently) the same relay. Who knows if any of these are fake.
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