Ohio will let businesses pay their taxes with Bitcoin | Lrd12 Overload Relay

I’ve been complaining for years about similar inabilities to do math with respect to diesel fuel. “Oh, but look at the high number I can calculate!” they all cry–as they pump their tanks with a fuel that’s 33% more expensive than gasoline.

No, he is using a MC3041 to drive a BT137 which can handle 8 amps continuously (if properly heatsinked).

Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.

Keep in mind that extension cords running from a generator can power anything that plugs into a wall socket, but not hard-wired appliances such as a furnace, sump pump or central air conditioner. If you want to run any of those during an outage, you will need to have a licensed electrician install a manual transfer switch (it looks like a mini circuit breaker) next to your main electrical panel. A heavy-duty cord from the generator plugs into the switch and allows you to power select circuits in your home. Prices vary depending on your market. In Neale’s case, she paid about $1,200 for the switch and installation, more than for the generator, which cost about $550.

We’ve seen very few car charging hacks. If you know of one, or have been working on your own, let us know!

Viking if your cord is getting hot, it’s being overloaded. Time to upgrade the circuit wiring and breaker. The cable doesn’t necessarily have to feel cold, but it shouldn’t feel noticeably warm to the touch either.

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We did go for an L2 charger in our case because we have 2 BEVs and charging them on 1 20 amp L1 circuit wouldn’t cut it. Generally my wife uses the L2 charger for her Leaf while I L1 charge the model 3 and only borrow her L2 connection if I have been too lazy to plug into L1 for a few days. But, if we just had the model 3 L1 alone would be fine. As for the “plugging an L1 charger into a corroded outlet safety risk” some other repliers mention. Well duh. If I plug an L2 charger into a corroded 14-30 or 14:50 outlet there is even more risk. If the 120V outlet is in poor shape $5 in parts at Home Depot can fix that. Any sustained draw electrical equipment can be a hazard if plugged into insufficient infrastructure.

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.

Yup. Isolation is important as other commenters have noted. I’d compare electric heating pad design too, and probably require a door interlock to cut power to the bed when the door is open (enclosed only). A simpler way may be to simply put a transformer or “dirty” switcher under the bed and not put the higher voltage into the build plate in the first place. Use either a digital on/off for the switcher or a ZVS SSR for the transformer high side control. Would a 1/100 or 1/120 of a second minimum duty cycle and lsb affect the temperature that much, given the thermal mass of the system?

However, DC distribution at the municipality level and smaller will be a nightmare to make work. Pretty much *everything* needs to be replaced, and for what purpose? It doesn’t really solve any significant problems and raises a host of others.