But they’d have to be in the same phase for it to work. If they’re in opposing phase, they’ll just push and pull against each other.
But at the end of the training it says “you can ignore all of this if you are troubleshooting”. If you are afraid of live circuits, stay at your desk where it is safe…
110/220 is the load rating and 120/240 is what the circuit provides. The voltage could sag as low as 110 or 220 in use.
Certainly not as dull as a Golf. The estate, sorry Sports Tourer, with more rear space might even tempt me.
Step 1: To find the voltage rating of the MOV, allow for 20% headroom to account for voltage swell and power-supply tolerances: 24 V dc à 1.2 = 28.8 V dc. Given that no varistors have a voltage rating of exactly 28.8 V, check the datasheets for specifications for 31-V dc MOVs.
Is it possible, that the discreet triplers (vs. diode split transformer) were in the time of BW-TV? They had lower power. Or the guy tested the AC before the tripler, I think that would make a great difference. Although I also would not do this intentionally. There would also be a nice arc to a grounded screw driver, if you want to test the HT – without any current path through myself, what I really prefer. The electrician, whom you mention, did he really die while testing for voltage with his hand, or was his accident unrelated to this?
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Seriously, it looks rather sparse inside, does it not? Perhaps some of you more electrically inclined/engineering types can chime in and let us know if $750 seems reasonable now that we know what’s inside?
TJ may also want to mention on his project page that without a choke, the TRIAC will dump out a ton of EMI (that’s why most commercial dimmers have to have a choke in series with the load to be able to get FCC certification).
Oh well… That industrial relay has ‘almost’ the same contact ratings of a simple songle srd-05v sl-c relay (specifically the C form/single phase). But I’m sure it won’t last as long as 20y+ in such harsh environment.
But there are some compromises that come with more fluid visuals. Samsung’s FreeSync mode only supports 1080p resolution for now, and the company notes that it might cause some random weirdness with the TV’s brightness at times. Probably still worth switching on just to see the difference it makes.
True, but I have never seen a product use them. They will probably become popular with wifi powered stuff.
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