Pass Laboratories XA200.8 monoblock power amplifier | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Invensys Triconex: 冗余容错控制系统、基于三重模件冗余（TMR）结构的最现代化的容错控制器。

I’ve spent four to eight years in apprentice school learning how to plan, install, inspect, and repair electrical products. Don’t insult my intelligence by implying otherwise.

The problem is that the triac may dissipate more than 15W when using it at 10A, which requires a good heatsink and ventilation. That’s a lot of overkill if you just want to control a 6W LED lamp.

Where a conventional SLR has an optical viewfinder, the Sony A33/55 substitutes an electronic display with an eyepiece attached. (An electronic viewfinder, or EVF for short.) The image for the EVF is taken from the main image sensor, so the camera is essentially always in "Live View" mode. Mechanically, the eyepiece projects out from the back of the camera a fair bit, to leave room for the camera’s autofocus system in front of the EVFs micro display and viewfinder optics. I found I actually liked this rear projection, as it left a bit more room for my nose when I held the camera to my eye. Happily, the neckstrap eyelets are arranged such that the camera hangs lens-down when on a neck strap, so I had no trouble with the projecting eyepiece poking me in the chest.

Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.

So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.

The QD terminals I buy are not the crappy ones you get at Home Depot. I buy 10 gauge Molex AviKrimp ones from DigiKey. They’re ~33 cents each at Q:250. They are no joke. I use them in the high current path of OpenEVSEs that I build for up to 24A, and they perform perfectly.

I’m a bit disappointed, I thought this was a safe place for dangerous ideas. If you want to diy an ELV heat bed go ahead, but that isn’t going to suit everyone.

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.

Take a look at the Lennox air conditioning condensing unit tag on Page 19. Notice that the MCA is 28.6 amps and the maximum fuse or circuit breaker is 50 amps. This means it is allowable to install this unit on a circuit breaker rated at 50 amps and a conductor rated at 28.6 amps, according to the NEC’s NFPA 70.

I often say this, and I will say it again: just because a thing is often done poorly, foolishly or dangerously does not in and of itself preclude it from being done properly.