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Pass Laboratories XA200.8 monoblock power amplifier | Lrd12 Overload Relay

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When we moved from the UK about 15 years ago, we lived in a PME TN-S property and my ex neighbors house is still connected thus. Newbuild and current standard might be to try to retrospectively phase that out, but its still a generalization to say all properties will be TN-C connected. If your in a TN-S property, its my understanding that ignoring that layout and putting your own earthing system in and bonding it to the supply one, can result in ground current back flowing through your system from neighboring properties.

I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.

It may be just perception coloured by the general work environment, but a lot of the US regs seem driven by liability concerns. Too many lawyers.

I’d love to see a follow piece on how to work with High Voltage as well. Lots of interesting projects to do with microwave and neon transformers…

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Thanks for the pointer, it looks promising! The RF-controlled remote switch appliances that can be found for a few dollars are self-contained, I would think that a Wifi-based one could also be? Having a separate wire coming out of the box seems like an extra hazard to me. If you keep the thing self-contained with only mains-in/mains-out, I would think it is safer in the end, and removes the internal complexity of optocouplers.

If you hesitate at the thought of doing this math for every system you work on, the NEC Article 110.3(B) states: Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

Most PSUs are not designed to receive DC even if you calculate it correctly. The 4 rectifier diodes on the primary side are evenly used with AC but with DC only two get hot, the other two do nothing. It can and will most likely work but you may decrease the lifespan of the PSU.

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My original quote is based on the project you called me in for. If I find out there’s actually a larger issue at hand, I’ll need to increase my price to match the scope of the project. I’m not ripping you off, I’m just making sure I get compensated for the extra work.

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Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.


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