Pioneer debuts three new wireless CarPlay systems | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.

132KV is probably safer if you don’t test it with the back of your hand. It’s not like those little neon screwdrivers are expensive. You’d think in electrician training they’d have taught him about electrocution.

The stakes are much higher when you’re connecting your project to the house mains, though, as [Mattias Wandel] recently learned when the solid-state relay controlling his water heater failed, with nearly tragic results. With aplomb that defies the fact that he just discovered that he nearly burned his house down, [Mattias] tours the scene of the crime and delivers a postmortem of the victim, a Fotek SSR-25DA. It appears that he mounted it well and gave it a decent heatsink, but the thing immolated itself just the same. The only remnant of the relay’s PCB left intact was the triac mounted to the rear plate. [Mattias] suspects the PCB traces heated up when he returned from vacation and the water heater it was controlling came on; with a tank full of cold water, both elements were needed and enough current was drawn to melt the solder build-up on the high-voltage traces. With the solder gone, the traces cooked off, and the rest is history. It’s a scary scenario that’s worth looking at if you’ve got any SSRs controlling loads anywhere near their rated limit.

I don’t think we would save that much money by swapping the heater to a mains powered. You would need something that is better insulated, and made of other materials. I highly doubt it would be possible to make a PCB with high enough resistance to work at 230V. That needs to be better insulated, more material, higher cost. Then you need to change the driver from a simple MOSFET to something isolated. Based on ebay prices of the kinds of supplies used, i would say there is a $10 saved by using a smaller power one. This is easy to see disappearing in better insulation and more complex driver.

For example, you can assemble a computer and do anything you want with the low-voltage parts, but opening the PSU and fiddling with that is illegal in many parts of the world. IF the device later catches fire and the insurance company finds out it was modified by yours truly, they can deny coverage, and if your neighbor’s house burns along with yours they can sue you etc. etc.

You’ll notice that I didn’t explain exactly how to correct this. I do this intentionally because I’m not going to do the work. This situation could be easily fixed by replacing the dimmer switch with a simple toggle switch, by installing a dimmer rated for a higher wattage, or by installing bulbs with a lower wattage. Any of those would be fine, but as the home inspector, I don’t design the repairs.

And if your primary and secondary are of different wire gauges, the thinner one becomes your limiting current factor. Wired in parallel gives the same ampere-turn count, but with less resistance, possible more AMPeres, so more aoere-turns.

I have never understood why North America stayed in their stupid 120V system, that uses very high currents over inferior aluminium wires, connected with lose screwcaps and fuses that may explode out of the wall. And it would be probably federal crime and against the code to use proper copper wires connected with good push lock blocks and DIN rail mounted fuses and contactors…

A final benefit of the EVF is that it lets you keep the camera to your eye during video recording, something no other SLR currently offers, although some SLDs do.

As with basically every other high-end Android phone this year, the Mi Mix 3 has a Snapdragon 845 processor, but breaks new memory grounds by including up to 10GB of RAM. Xiaomi is also bundling the phone with a 10W wireless charger. A 5G version is set for release in Europe early next year.

I recently spent 2 days troubleshooting my main PC because it was shutting down under even normal load, let alone trying to mine cryptocurrency. (I mine on my daily-driver hardware, not investing in a dedicated rig)

On our case a combo was the right solution. We use a contactor (a relay) to switch incoming power because it’s either on or off. But we use a SSR to switch elements on and off because they cycle on/off many times a minute.