Pioneer debuts three new wireless CarPlay systems | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

The run capacitor limits the current that will pass through the start winding when the motor is running, because they are wired in series. The run capacitor also provides running torque when the motor is up and running.

My testimony : 230VAC doesn’t kill if you’re lucky. Lots of people died on 230VAC (Claude François….)

That’ what I was thing one simple resign feature could make it as safe as most electrical appliances. Assuming heating element isn’t subject to contact. For me the phonographs weren’t clear in that regard. .

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

Just curious, what size pump do you have? The Sonoff claims 10A per channel, but my 1HP pump needs a 40-50A relay to safely deal with cold-start current. Unless the relays are overspec’d I’d be worried about literally burning out those contacts pretty fast.

Now we’re getting into more serious stuff. The contactor is a relay that converts the low-voltage signal from the thermostat into a signal to switch on 220V power to the compressor and condenser. When these contactors fail, the A/C unit will go down. They are a cheap and easy to replace. Check the owner’s manual to locate the contactor and replacement model.

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

two suggestions… 1. bridge it and use as a 230v rectified/ cleaned up DC as per your choice 2. as with pop up toasters and hairdriers, use convection and radiation instead of conduction. use a hot coil and duct the hot air for circulation under the bed.

Aluminum wire has a lower ampacity than the same gauge copper wire, meaning aluminum must be larger to accomplish the same ampacity job as copper wire. The rule-of-thumb sizes rely on the lowest allowable temperature rating of the wire; in some cases, the circuit may have a higher ampacity if the insulation on the wire and the connection endpoints are all rated at 75°C (167°F) or 90°C (194°F).

You need to learn how to read a datasheet and understand the terms – without an understanding it won’t do you any good.

Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.

Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.