Pioneer debuts three new wireless CarPlay systems | Circuit Breaker Parts

If I remember right Edmund sold a one ton lift magnet that would work with one dry cell. It was about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and half as thick with a single piece of iron with a circular groove for the coil. I saw a similar magnet lift a car at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago decades ago. The trick is perfect flat coupling to a thick flat piece on the load.

I did this to my 3D printer quite awhile ago. I made my printer bed from 1/2 inch thick aluminum for thermal mass. I went to walmart and bought a $6 clothes iron. The iron had a cast aluminum foot with the integral ceramic heating element. I took the iron apart and cut the element out from the foot with a bandsaw. I applied some thermal grease to the cutout heating element and screwed it to the underside of the thick build plate. I attached the thermister sensor a ways away ftom the heating element so i would read the build plate rather than the element. i used a solid state relay for control. For safety i ran a ground wire to the build plate and fused the mains. It works great!

Many lawmakers see this legislation as increasingly more crucial in the wake of Attorney General Jeff Sessions’s departure and Trump’s ongoing critiques of the Mueller probe.

The Death Star post illustrates why we shouldn’t let economists decide how to run things. That and a million other stories from real life.

Sure you can say it’s cultural and you have to take this into account. It’s still bloody dishonest though! Just means their culture is dishonest. Same place where people skim fat out of the damn SEWER to cook food, and it ends up contaminated with all the industrial chemicals that were illegally dumped down the sewer.

At the risk of being labeled a pedant, I’ll remind you that Mike isn’t billed for power, he’s billed for energy, and you didn’t say how *long* you’d expect to draw 3 kW for free.

With a smart charger the EV can be recharged at night and unless you are using electric strip heaters, even a 100 amp service panel can suffice. From 10 pm to 6 am there is no significant electrical demand (only the fridge or the furnace motor) to compete with the 32 amps for the EV. A drawback to L1 charging is having to leave the car plugged in for 3 times as long and having a power cord to trip over in the garage.

Knowing the sequence of operation for this type of starting relay can help you diagnose, confirm, or rule out certain service problems.

I like the idea, but you don’t need a 3D printer for this. Just use conductive strips or good ol’ fashioned wire.

Getting reasonably priced SSRs that are trustworthy seems almost impossible. A 40A TRIAC costs $34. I know there’s more than the TRIAC in the SSR, but it’s not like there are that many components either… I end up using relays if at all reasonable and scratch my head when they’re not…

A hobbyist should not screw with a Triac on house wiring if it will be “permanently” installed in a junction box. Make an adapter that plugs into a socket on the outside so that it is clear it is not a normal outlet. If you have to homebrew something like this use a good relay or contactor with a UR approval. AND read the spec on it thoroughly.

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.