For every piece of equipment that lists MOCP and MCA, you are given the breaker size and minimum wire ampacity. As above, the MOCP is usually significantly higher than the MCA, but this is to allow for the spike in amp draw upon motor start.
At the risk of being labeled a pedant, I’ll remind you that Mike isn’t billed for power, he’s billed for energy, and you didn’t say how *long* you’d expect to draw 3 kW for free.
Not at all. One lumberjack pushes while the other pulls, and they’re both pushing and pulling against the ground. It’s fits perfectly.
I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.
Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.
Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.
In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.
The one negative that most stands out in my mind for the Sony A33 actually has the least to do with its abilities as a camera. The first thing that comes to mind when thinking about shooting with it isn’t whether I’ll be able to bring back the shots I want with it, but rather whether the battery will last long enough to do so. We have no doubt that the Sony A33 will meet the fairly generous shot-life numbers quoted under the CIPA specs (340 shots with the LCD, 270 with the EVF), but in actual practice, with the camera rattling off hundreds of shots in amazingly short order, what most struck me was just how fast I seemed to run out of battery life. It’s quite easy to run through a full battery in just a couple of hours of active shooting, and two batteries should be considered a minimum for a day of serious shooting.
Why do the US still use 110v mains and 20A room circuit breakers? Those currents are dangerous, not the volts.
He did specifically mount/build that setup around the possibility of failure. He talks about it in the first few minutes of the video. Kinda a hyped up headline.
Electric blankets have lots of testing to ensure they’re safely insulated from the user. They also don’t get nearly as hot. They also use too much power to economically run from a low voltage PSU.
Depends how far north you are – direct sunlight isn’t required for them to produce useful heat. If you’ve got a months long night then they’re no use though.
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