I love the concept and the build. But does potting with epoxy resin have enough strength to hold magnets in place? I did not see any mechanical fastners holding magnets in place . If epoxy cracks I see magnets pulling out of metal bracket and failure .Over to someone with engineering experience please.
Due to its diminutive stature, most photographers will find that the grip only accommodates two fingers, with the index finger resting on the shutter release button above, and the little finger curling beneath the bottom of the camera. This might seem a little crowded, but with the light, plastic-bodied 18-55mm kit lens, handling is nonetheless good, with the combination feeling extremely well balanced. Using larger, heavier lenses, the grip size is too tiring for single-handed shooting, so the photographer’s left hand will need to serve double duty, adjusting zoom or focus while simultaneously taking up the weight of the lens itself.
I had my own suggestions further up in the comments here, and I’d like to believe I expressed them respectfully, and TJ addressed them. And, as is appropriate, the article text has an exhortation to not play with HV power without due care.
It is not uncommon to see lower than specified rating triacs on these cheap Fotek SSRs. Look up on youtube, it is probably a fake one.
Actually there are checklists, especially for people working on substations and other really high voltage/high energy stuff. But if a moron decides to skip the checklist it won’t help you any. Checklist are not infallible, not even in aviation.
There is a lot there, but here are two highlights that directly apply to you as an HVACR professional. This comes from the 2017 edition of the NEC NFPA 70.
I thought “residual current circuit breaker” was just the European name for what we call a GFCI in the US.
You’ll notice that there’s a single general lighting circuit that’s warmer than the other breakers in this panel; again, it’s only a small increase in temperature, so I’m not concerned. If it were much warmer, I might question why.
The morals of the story: buy quality components and test them if possible; when in doubt, derate; and make sure a flaming component can’t light anything else on fire. And you’ll want to review the basics of fire protection while you’re at it.
With a smart charger the EV can be recharged at night and unless you are using electric strip heaters, even a 100 amp service panel can suffice. From 10 pm to 6 am there is no significant electrical demand (only the fridge or the furnace motor) to compete with the 32 amps for the EV. A drawback to L1 charging is having to leave the car plugged in for 3 times as long and having a power cord to trip over in the garage.
I recall a battery add from the 70’s or 80’s that displayed the power of a couple of 1.5V cells powering an electromagnet that could lift a car.
people remember “the good old days” and they forget all about the horrible accidents and fires and massive death that came from ignoring fire regulations
Portable 120V to 240V Converter; or How to Fast Charge at Your In-Law’s House | 19mm Momentary Push Button Related Video:
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